Transferring Wave Conditions From Offshore to Nearshore: The Case of Nordfold

2014 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christos N. Stefanakos ◽  
Grim Eidnes
Keyword(s):  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Third Generation ◽  
Satellite Altimeter ◽  
Northern Norway ◽  
Area Of Interest ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Long Time ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Offshore Wave

In the present work, an analysis of the wave climate in Nord-fold area in the northern Norway has been performed. The analysis was carried out by transferring offshore wave conditions to the nearshore area of interest by successive applications of the well-known third-generation wave model SWAN. The area presents a particular interest, since it has a very deep and complex bathymetry near the coast and a very complicated coastline. Analysis has been carried out using a very detailed bathymetry of the area provided by the Norwegian Mapping Authority. Moreover, as input, five year long time series of directional spectra of offshore wave parameters have been used, after being calibrated using the best available satellite altimeter dataset.

Nearshore Wave Modelling in a Norwegian Fjord

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christos N. Stefanakos ◽  
Birgitte R. Furevik ◽  
Øyvind Knutsen ◽  
Konstantinos Christakos
Keyword(s):  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Wave Modelling ◽  
Good Accordance ◽  
Norwegian Fjord ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Wave Models ◽  
Model Setup ◽  
Offshore Wave

Abstract Phase averaged wave models is a good supplement of in situ measurements for the study of wave climate in a specific location. In spite of having been tested in smoothly varying coastal areas, they haven’t previously been systematically validated in complex topography (coastline and bathymetry) such as Norwegian fjords, due to lack of measurements. However, in planning for large fjord crossings, the Norwegian Public Roads Administration have launched a number of buoys which allow for validation of model setup. In the present work, nearshore wave conditions in the area of Sulafjord, central Norway, are investigated as derived from numerical modelling with several different setups, and are compared against in situ buoy measurements with good accordance. The analysis is carried out by transferring offshore wave conditions to the nearshore area by successive applications of the well-known third-generation wave model SWAN. As input has been used a very detailed bathymetry of the area, and time series of wind and wave parameters derived from ERA5 and NORA10 datasets. Various scenarios reconstructing the wave input spectra have been considered.

WAVE CLIMATE OF THE BLACK SEA’S COASTAL WATERS DURING THE LAST THREE DECADES

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Elena Stoliarova ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wind Speed ◽  
Cell Size ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Spatial Scales ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Computational Grid ◽  
Coastal Areas ◽  
Wave Parameters

This study is focused on the alterations and typical features of the wind wave climate of the Black Sea’s coastal waters since 1979 till nowadays. Wind wave parameters were calculated by means of the 3rd-generation numerical spectral wind wave model SWAN, which is widely used on various spatial scales – both coastal waters and open seas. Data on wind speed and direction from the NCEP CFSR reanalysis were used as forcing. The computations were performed on an unstructured computational grid with cell size depending on the distance from the shoreline. Modeling results were applied to evaluate the main characteristics of the wind wave in various coastal areas of the sea.

scholarly journals A Multimodal Wave Spectrum–Based Approach for Statistical Downscaling of Local Wave Climate

2017 ◽  
Vol 47 (2) ◽  
pp. 375-386 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. A. Hegermiller ◽  
J. A. A. Antolinez ◽  
A. Rueda ◽  
P. Camus ◽  
J. Perez ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Statistical Downscaling ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Ocean Basin ◽  
Coastal Hazards ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Bulk Wave ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Wave Conditions

AbstractCharacterization of wave climate by bulk wave parameters is insufficient for many coastal studies, including those focused on assessing coastal hazards and long-term wave climate influences on coastal evolution. This issue is particularly relevant for studies using statistical downscaling of atmospheric fields to local wave conditions, which are often multimodal in large ocean basins (e.g., Pacific Ocean). Swell may be generated in vastly different wave generation regions, yielding complex wave spectra that are inadequately represented by a single set of bulk wave parameters. Furthermore, the relationship between atmospheric systems and local wave conditions is complicated by variations in arrival time of wave groups from different parts of the basin. Here, this study addresses these two challenges by improving upon the spatiotemporal definition of the atmospheric predictor used in the statistical downscaling of local wave climate. The improved methodology separates the local wave spectrum into “wave families,” defined by spectral peaks and discrete generation regions, and relates atmospheric conditions in distant regions of the ocean basin to local wave conditions by incorporating travel times computed from effective energy flux across the ocean basin. When applied to locations with multimodal wave spectra, including Southern California and Trujillo, Peru, the new methodology improves the ability of the statistical model to project significant wave height, peak period, and direction for each wave family, retaining more information from the full wave spectrum. This work is the base of statistical downscaling by weather types, which has recently been applied to coastal flooding and morphodynamic applications.

Projected Changes in the Occurrence of Extreme and Rogue Waves in Future Climate in the North Atlantic

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Odin Gramstad ◽  
Elzbieta Bitner-Gregersen ◽  
Erik Vanem
Keyword(s):  
North Atlantic ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Rogue Waves ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Future Climate ◽  
The North ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
The Future ◽  
The North Atlantic

We investigate the future wave climate in the North Atlantic with respect to extreme events as well as on wave parameters that have previously not been considered in much details in the perspective of wave climate change, such as those associated with occurrence of rogue waves. A number of future wave projections is obtained by running the third generation wave model WAM with wind input derived from several global circulation models. In each case the wave model has been run for the 30-year historical period 1971–2000 and the future period 2071–2100 assuming the two different future climate scenarios RCP 4.5 and RCP 8.5. The wave model runs have been carried out by the Norwegian Meteorological Institute in Bergen, and the climate model result are taken from The Coupled Model Intercomparison Project phase 5 - CMIP5. In addition to the standard wave parameters such as significant wave height and peak period the wave model runs provided the full two-dimensional wave spectrum. This has enabled the study of a larger set of wave parameters. The focus of the present study is the projected future changes in occurrence of extreme sea states and extreme and rogue waves. The investigations are limited to parameters related to this in a few selected locations in the North Atlantic. Our results show that there are large uncertainties in many of the parameters considered in this study, and in many cases the different climate models and different model scenarios provide contradicting results with respect to the predicted change from past to future climate. There are, however, some situations for which a clearer tendency is observed.

WAVE CLIMATE OF THE BLACK SEA’S COASTAL WATERS DURING THE LAST THREE DECADES

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Elena Stoliarova ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wind Speed ◽  
Cell Size ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Spatial Scales ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Computational Grid ◽  
Coastal Areas ◽  
Wave Parameters

This study is focused on the alterations and typical features of the wind wave climate of the Black Sea’s coastal waters since 1979 till nowadays. Wind wave parameters were calculated by means of the 3rd-generation numerical spectral wind wave model SWAN, which is widely used on various spatial scales – both coastal waters and open seas. Data on wind speed and direction from the NCEP CFSR reanalysis were used as forcing. The computations were performed on an unstructured computational grid with cell size depending on the distance from the shoreline. Modeling results were applied to evaluate the main characteristics of the wind wave in various coastal areas of the sea.

Offshore wave climate, Perth (Western Australia), 1994 - 96

1999 ◽  
Vol 50 (2) ◽  
pp. 95 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. J. Lemm ◽  
B. J. Hegge ◽  
G. Masselink
Keyword(s):  
Western Australia ◽  
Annual Variation ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Sea Breezes ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Mean Wave Period ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Offshore Wave ◽  
Low Amplitude

The offshore wave climate of Perth (Western Australia) was analysed by using 2.5 years of non-directional 20-min wave data collected from March 1994 to August 1996. The mean wave conditions are characterized by a significant wave height (Hs) of 2.0 m and a spectral mean wave period (Tm) of 8.8 s. However, considerable annual variation in the wave conditions is experienced because of a distinct seasonality in the regional wind regime. During summer, daily sea breezes generate moderate seas (ambient Hs 1 to 2 m; Tm <8 s). During winter, frequent storms associated with mid-latitude depressions generate heavy seas and swell (ambient Hs 1.5 to 2.5 m; Tm >8 s). A low-amplitude background swell (Hs ~0.5 m), generated distantly in the Indian and Southern Oceans, is present all year round. Analysis of extreme wave conditions (Hs >4 m) indicates that, on average, 30 storms are experienced annually, and the storms are most frequent and intense during July. Estimates of extreme Hs, based on all available offshore wave data (12 years, 1975–96), for 1- and 100-year return periods, are 6.7 m and 9.8 m, respectively.

An Atlas of the Wave-Energy Resource in Europe

1996 ◽  
Vol 118 (4) ◽  
pp. 307-309 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. T. Pontes ◽  
G. A. Athanassoulis ◽  
S. Barstow ◽  
L. Cavaleri ◽  
B. Holmes ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Energy ◽  
Energy Resource ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Weather Forecasts ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
Offshore Wave ◽  
Climate Statistics

An atlas of the European offshore wave energy resource, being developed within the scope of a European R&D program, includes the characterization of the offshore resource for the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts of Europe in addition to providing wave-energy and wave-climate statistics that are of interest to other users of the ocean. The wave data used for compiling the Atlas come from the numerical wind-wave model WAM, implemented in the routine operation of the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF), in addition to directional wave measurements from the Norwegian offshore waters.

Numerical Study of Wave Climate in Jiangsu Sea Area

2014 ◽  
Vol 501-504 ◽  
pp. 2099-2106
Author(s):  
Liang Ding ◽  
Fei Fan ◽  
Jia Rui Li
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Flow Model ◽  
Numerical Study ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Wave Condition ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Average Wave ◽  
Buoy Data ◽  
Sea Area

This paper studied the wave condition of Jiangsu Sea area with wave model SWAN, which was driven by the wind field from 1990.01.01 to 2011.12.30. Firstly, tidal current of Jiangsu sea area was simulated by the Delft3D flow model. Then, wave parameters of East China Sea and Jiangsu sea area were computed, and then buoy data was used to compared with the modeled, they validated well. Last, the average wave height and period are calculated, and the distribution of wave height on each direction was studied. The result shows that the largest annually average wave height of Jiangsu is up to 1.6m. The average wave height is decreasing from southeast to northwest. The wave height in winter is larger than other seasons. In this sea area, waves mainly come from NE and SE directions. Strong waves come from NE or NNE direction.

scholarly journals Inner harbour wave agitation using boussinesq wave model

2015 ◽  
Vol 7 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Jitendra K. Panigrahi ◽  
C.P. Padhy ◽  
A.S.N. Murty
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Operating Conditions ◽  
Critical Threshold ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Near Shore ◽  
Wave Models ◽  
Offshore Wave

ABSTRACTShort crested waves play an important role for planning and design of harbours. In this context a numerical simulation is carried out to evaluate wave tranquility inside a real harbour located in east coast of India. The annual offshore wave climate proximity- to harbour site is established using Wave Model (WAM) hindcast wave data. The deep water waves are transformed to harbour front using a Near Shore spectral Wave model (NSW). A directional analysis is carried out to determine the probable incident wave directions towards the harbour. Most critical threshold wave height and wave period is chosen for normal operating conditions using exceedence probability analysis. Irregular random waves from various directions are generated confirming to Pierson Moskowitz spectrum at 20m water depth. Wave incident into inner harbor through harbor entrance is performed using Boussinesq Wave model (BW). Wave disturbance experienced inside the harbour and at various berths are analysed. The paper discusses the progresses took place in short wave modeling and it demonstrates application of wave climate for the evaluation of harbor tranquility using various types of wave models.

scholarly journals Morphodynamic Acceleration Techniques for Multi-Timescale Predictions of Complex Sandy Interventions

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (3) ◽  
pp. 78 ◽  
Author(s):  
Arjen Luijendijk ◽  
Matthieu Schipper ◽  
Roshanka Ranasinghe
Keyword(s):  
Time Scales ◽  
Morphological Evolution ◽  
Computational Cost ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Sandy Beaches ◽  
Brute Force ◽  
Morphological Response ◽  
Acceleration Techniques ◽  
Long Time ◽  
Wave Conditions

Thirty one percent (31%) of the world’s coastline consists of sandy beaches and dunes that form a natural defense protecting the hinterland from flooding. A common measure to mitigate erosion along sandy beaches is the implementation of sand nourishments. The design and acceptance of such a mitigating measure require information on the expected evolution at time scales from storms to decades. Process-based morphodynamic models are increasingly applied, together with morphodynamic acceleration techniques, to obtain detailed information on this wide scale of ranges. This study shows that techniques for the acceleration of the morphological evolution can have a significant impact on the simulated evolution and dispersion of sandy interventions. A calibrated Delft3D model of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment is applied to compare different acceleration techniques, focusing on accuracy and computational times. Results show that acceleration techniques using representative (schematized) wave conditions are not capable of accurately reproducing the morphological response in the first two years. The best reproduction of the morphological behavior of the first five years is obtained by the brute force simulations. Applying input filtering and a compression factor provides similar accuracy yet with a factor five gain in computational cost. An attractive method for the medium to long time scales, which further reduces computational costs, is a method that uses representative wave conditions based on gross longshore transports, while showing similar results as the benchmark simulation. Erosional behavior is captured well in all considered techniques with variations in volumes of about 1 million m 3 after three decades. The spatio-temporal variability of the predicted alongshore and cross-shore distribution of the morphological evolution however have a strong dependency on the selected acceleration technique. A new technique, called ’brute force merged’, which incorporates the full variability of the wave climate, provides the optimal combination of phenomenological accuracy and computational efficiency (a factor of 20 faster than the benchmark brute force technique) at both the short and medium to long time scales. This approach, which combines realistic time series and the mormerge technique, provides an attractive and flexible method to efficiently predict the evolution of complex sandy interventions at time scales from hours to decades.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document