scholarly journals Limitations on the Creation of Continuously Surfable Waves Generated by a Pressure Source Moving in a Circular Path

2013 ◽  
Author(s):  
Steven A. Schmied ◽  
Jonathan R. Binns ◽  
Martin R. Renilson ◽  
Giles A. Thomas ◽  
Gregor J. Macfarlane ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Life Cycle ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Design Parameters ◽  
Sectional Area ◽  
Pressure Source ◽  
Cross Sectional ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Limiting Values

In this paper, a novel idea to produce continuous breaking waves is discussed, whereby a pressure source is rotated within an annular wave pool. The concept was that the pressure source generates non-breaking waves that propagate inward to the inner ring of the annulus, where a sloping bathymetry (beach) triggers wave breaking. In order to refine the technique, research was conducted to better understand the mechanics of waves generated by a pressure source moving in a circular track in a constrained waterway, the transformation of these waves as they travel across the channel and the effect of the sloping beach on the wave quality for surfing. The quality of the waves was defined in terms of wave height, speed and shape, with the desired aim to create plunging waves, known as “barrels”, that are highly desired by surfers. Surfers also require a long steep crestline or “wall”, to allow a full range of manoeuvres to be performed. Finally, the pool needed to be able to create waves suitable for surfers from beginner to expert level, defined in terms of both the wave height and angle between the wave break point angle and the beach, known a peel angle. The primary novel outcome of the research conducted was to be able to design a pressure source that most efficiently imparted wave making energy into the water, and thus generated the largest possible waves whilst travelling at the required speed for surfing. The major finding was that the design parameters are generally in competition, and to determine a balance of limiting values, the design parameters cannot be considered in isolation. Therefore, a set of empirical relationships between the design parameters were developed to allow the pool to be designed for a combination of desired wave height at the breakpoint, wave shape and given pool radius. The limiting values for the parameters were determined experimentally, with the wave life-cycle from generation through transformation to wave breaking and dissipation used to focus the investigation. Scale model experiments were conducted in both linear and circular tracks. In addition to taking quantitative measurement of wave height and current formation, a method of qualitatively scoring the waves was developed to allow various pressure source shapes, operating conditions and bathymetries to be compared in terms of their suitability for surfing. The best quality waves were produced by a wedge-shaped wavedozer pressure source, such as the device detailed in Driscoll and Renilson [1]. Blockage, defined as the pressure source cross sectional area to channel cross-sectional area, was found to have a significant limitation on the generation of high quality waves suitable for surfing in a constrained waterway. Lateral wave decay, length and depth Froude Numbers also strongly influenced the waves during their life-cycle. Fundamentally, it was determined that only a very small range of design parameter values produce the desired high and shapely waves in the extremely constrained waterway under consideration.

A Novel Method for Generating Continuously Surfable Waves: Comparison of Predictions With Experimental Results

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Steven A. Schmied ◽  
Jonathan R. Binns ◽  
Martin R. Renilson ◽  
Giles A. Thomas ◽  
Gregor J. Macfarlane ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Energy Efficiency ◽  
Experimental Investigation ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Experimental Results ◽  
Pressure Source ◽  
Towing Tank ◽  
Novel Method ◽  
The Waves

In this paper, a novel idea to produce continuous breaking waves is discussed, whereby a pressure source is rotated within an annular wave pool. The concept is that the inner ring of the annulus has a sloping bathymetry to induce wave breaking from the wake of the pressure source. In order to refine the technique, work is being conducted to better understand the mechanics of surfable waves generated by moving pressure sources in restricted water. This paper reports on the first stage of an experimental investigation of a novel method for generating continuously surfable waves utilising a moving pressure source. The aim was to measure and assess the waves generated by two parabolic pressure sources and a wavedozer [1] for their suitability for future development of continuous breaking surfable waves. The tests were conducted at the Australian Maritime College (AMC), University of Tasmania (UTas) 100 metre long towing tank. The experimental results as variations in wave height (H) divided by water depth (h) as functions of depth Froude number (Frh) and h, together with predictions from both methods, are presented in this paper. Finally, measures of the wave making energy efficiency of each pressure source, and the surfable quality of the waves generated by it, were developed and are presented.

PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Vertical Axis ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Spectral Structure ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Nonlinear Harmonics ◽  
The Waves

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.

scholarly journals Observations of Breaking Waves and Energy Dissipation in Modulated Wave Groups

2018 ◽  
Vol 48 (12) ◽  
pp. 2937-2948 ◽  
Author(s):  
David W. Wang ◽  
Hemantha W. Wijesekera
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Dissipation Rate ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Dissipation Rates ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Tke Dissipation Rate ◽  
The Impact

AbstractIt has been recognized that modulated wave groups trigger wave breaking and generate energy dissipation events on the ocean surface. Quantitative examination of wave-breaking events and associated turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation rates within a modulated wave group in the open ocean is not a trivial task. To address this challenging topic, a set of laboratory experiments was carried out in an outdoor facility, the Oil and Hazardous Material Simulated Environment Test Tank (203 m long, 20 m wide, 3.5 m deep). TKE dissipation rates at multiple depths were estimated directly while moving the sensor platform at a speed of about 0.53 m s−1 toward incoming wave groups generated by the wave maker. The largest TKE dissipation rates and significant whitecaps were found at or near the center of wave groups where steepening waves approached the geometric limit of waves. The TKE dissipation rate was O(10−2) W kg−1 during wave breaking, which is two to three orders of magnitude larger than before and after wave breaking. The enhanced TKE dissipation rate was limited to a layer of half the wave height in depth. Observations indicate that the impact of wave breaking was not significant at depths deeper than one wave height from the surface. The TKE dissipation rate of breaking waves within wave groups can be parameterized by local wave phase speed with a proportionality breaking strength coefficient dependent on local steepness. The characterization of energy dissipation in wave groups from local wave properties will enable a better determination of near-surface TKE dissipation of breaking waves.

Scars and Vortices Induced by Ship Bow and Shoulder Wave Breaking

2007 ◽  
Vol 129 (11) ◽  
pp. 1445-1459 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Olivieri ◽  
F. Pistani ◽  
R. Wilson ◽  
E. F. Campana ◽  
F. Stern
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Bubbly Flow ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Cfd Validation ◽  
Mean Velocity ◽  
Flow Measurements ◽  
Local Flow ◽  
Sparse Measurements

Experimental data are provided for physical understanding and computational fluid dynamics (CFD) validation for the surface combatant David–Taylor model basin Model 5415 bow and shoulder wave breaking. A photographic study was conducted using 5.72m replica and 3.05m geosim models of Model 5415 over a range of Froude numbers (Fr) to identify Fr and scale effects on wave breaking and choose the best Fr for the local flow measurements, which include near- and far-field means and rms wave elevation and mean velocity under the breaking waves. The larger model and Fr=0.35 were selected due to the large extents of quasisteady plunging bow and spilling shoulder wave breaking. A direct correlation is shown between regions of wave slope larger than 17deg and regions of large rms in wave height variation. Scars characterized by sudden changes in the mean wave height and vortices induced by wave breaking were identified. Complementary CFD solutions fill the gaps in the relatively sparse measurements enabling a more complete description of the bow and shoulder wave breaking and induced vortices and scars. The combined results have important implications regarding the modeling of the bubbly flow around surface ships, especially for bubble sources and entrainment.

Effects of Some Design Parameters on the Static Performance of the Truss String Structure

2011 ◽  
Vol 255-260 ◽  
pp. 215-219
Author(s):  
Cheng Wei Huang ◽  
Rui Shao ◽  
De Li Zhang
Keyword(s):  
Finite Element ◽  
Tensile Properties ◽  
High Strength ◽  
Design Parameters ◽  
Sectional Area ◽  
Cross Sectional ◽  
Static Performance ◽  
String Structure ◽  
Element Theory ◽  
Selection Of

The beam string structure，a new self-balancing system is a combination of a string (Cable), pole and beam-column (beam, arch). Because the beam string structure make full use of tensile properties of high-strength cord, force became more reasonable, transportation became more convenient and construction became more simple for the new self-balancing system. The beam string structure became a new structure with a good value and prospects. In this paper the effects of the static performance of the single truss string structure are researched through analyzing the influence of prestressed cable, pole pitch, blow-span ratio of cable and cross-sectional area of cable using of finite element theory. The results of the reasonable selection of string truss design parameters a valuable reference.

scholarly journals Determination of the parameters of the hydrodynamic mixer

2018 ◽  
Vol 224 ◽  
pp. 05023 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuri Ivanov ◽  
Viktor Pakhomov ◽  
Sergei Kambulov ◽  
Dmitri Rudoi
Keyword(s):  
Vegetable Oils ◽  
Design Parameters ◽  
Biodiesel Fuel ◽  
Industrial Complex ◽  
Variable Cross ◽  
Sectional Area ◽  
Mixing Process ◽  
Cross Sectional ◽  
Main Design

Many technologies of the agro-industrial complex are associated with the need for a quality blending of two or more components. These include the processes of obtaining biodiesel fuel based on vegetable oils, obtaining aqueous emulsions of fats in the production of mixed fodders. In this process, the most effective is the use of a hydrodynamic mixer, the main design parameters of which are determined in the process of investigation. The design of a nozzle with a variable cross-sectional area is calculated, which allows to control the mixing process. The obtained mathematical dependences quite fully characterize the features of the work and the requirements for the design of the ejector installed in the hydrodynamic mixer to create cavitation with the required intensity.

Research and Analysis on the Wave Transformation and Irregular Wave Breaking Criterion on the Shore

2016 ◽  
Vol 858 ◽  
pp. 354-358
Author(s):  
Tao You ◽  
Li Ping Zhao ◽  
Zheng Xiao ◽  
Lun Chao Huang ◽  
Xiao Rui Han
Keyword(s):  
Theoretical Model ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Irregular Wave

Within the surf zone which is the region extending from the seaward boundary of wave breaking to the limit of wave uprush, breaking waves are the dominant hydrodynamics acting as the key role for sediment transport and beach profile change. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principally depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave transformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set down and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height variation caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction, and about the wave breaking criterion under regular and irregular breaking waves. Flume experiments relating to the regular and irregular breaking wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. The agreement is good between the theoretical and experimental results.

scholarly journals Semiempirical Dissipation Source Functions for Ocean Waves. Part I: Definition, Calibration, and Validation

2010 ◽  
Vol 40 (9) ◽  
pp. 1917-1941 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fabrice Ardhuin ◽  
Erick Rogers ◽  
Alexander V. Babanin ◽  
Jean-François Filipot ◽  
Rudy Magne ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wind Speed ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Remote Sensing Data ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Global Ocean ◽  
Short Waves ◽  
Wide Range

Abstract New parameterizations for the spectral dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum and wind speed and direction, in a way consistent with observations of wave breaking and swell dissipation properties. Namely, the swell dissipation is nonlinear and proportional to the swell steepness, and dissipation due to wave breaking is nonzero only when a nondimensional spectrum exceeds the threshold at which waves are observed to start breaking. An additional source of short-wave dissipation is introduced to represent the dissipation of short waves due to longer breaking waves. A reduction of the wind-wave generation of short waves is meant to account for the momentum flux absorbed by longer waves. These parameterizations are combined and calibrated with the discrete interaction approximation for the nonlinear interactions. Parameters are adjusted to reproduce observed shapes of directional wave spectra, and the variability of spectral moments with wind speed and wave height. The wave energy balance is verified in a wide range of conditions and scales, from the global ocean to coastal settings. Wave height, peak and mean periods, and spectral data are validated using in situ and remote sensing data. Some systematic defects are still present, but, overall, the parameterizations probably yield the most accurate estimates of wave parameters to date. Perspectives for further improvement are also given.

A Novel Method for Generating Continuously Surfable Waves

2010 ◽  
Vol 44 (2) ◽  
pp. 7-12 ◽  
Author(s):  
Steven Schmied ◽  
Jonathan Binns ◽  
Martin Renilson ◽  
Giles Thomas ◽  
Gregor Macfarlane ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Steady State ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Numerical Study ◽  
River Estuary ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Wave Mechanics ◽  
Pressure Source ◽  
Novel Method ◽  
Future Work

AbstractThis paper presents the background and initial investigation of a novel method for generating continuously surfable waves utilizing a moving pressure source. The idea is to produce continuous breaking waves using a pressure source that is rotated within an annular wave pool. The inner ring of the annulus has a sloping bathymetry to induce wave breaking. The underlying aim of the project is to understand the wave mechanics, to allow the creation of repeatable continuous “steady-state” waves.The immediate benefits of this scientific investigation will be realized by engineering the results into a surfing wave pool for recreational health use. The longer-term benefits will be developed through fundamental investigations of breaking waves.Preliminary experiments into creating a continuous steady-state wave were conducted in a towing tank using a series of pressure sources. The results have then been used to validate an initial numerical study. In addition, qualitative, full-scale experiments were carried out using a fishing vessel in a river estuary. This paper reports on the research conducted to date and plans for future work, including conducting experiments utilizing a 10-metre-diameter scale model.

scholarly journals Numerical Simulations of Non-Breaking, Breaking and Broken Wave Interaction with Emerged Vegetation Using Navier-Stokes Equations

Water ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 11 (12) ◽  
pp. 2561 ◽  
Author(s):  
Xuefeng Zou ◽  
Liangsheng Zhu ◽  
Jun Zhao
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Wave Interaction ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Breaking Point ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Inertia Force

Coastal plants can significantly dissipate water wave energy and services as a part of shoreline protection. Using plants as a natural buffer from wave impacts remains an attractive possibility. In this paper, we present a numerical investigation on the effects of the emerged vegetation on non-breaking, breaking and broken wave propagation through vegetation over flat and sloping beds using the Reynolds-average Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations coupled with a volume of fluid (VOF) surface capturing method. The multiphase two-equation k-ω SST turbulence model is adopted to simulate wave breaking and takes into account the effects enhanced by vegetation. The numerical model is validated with existing data from several laboratory experiments. The sensitivities of wave height evolution due to wave conditions and vegetation characteristics with variable bathymetry have been investigated. The results show good agreement with measured data. For non-breaking waves, the wave reflection due to the vegetation can increase wave height in front of the vegetation. For breaking waves, it is shown that the wave breaking behavior can be different when the vegetation is in the surf zone. The wave breaking point is slightly earlier and the wave height at the breaking point is smaller with the vegetation. For broken waves, the vegetation has little effect on the wave height before the breaking point. Meanwhile, the inertia force is important within denser vegetation and is intended to decrease the wave damping of the vegetation. Overall, the present model has good performance in simulating non-breaking, breaking and broken wave interaction with the emerged vegetation and can achieve a better understanding of wave propagation over the emerged vegetation.

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