Characteristics of Steep Second-Order Random Waves in Finite and Shallow Water

Author(s):  
Carl Trygve Stansberg

The theoretical formulation of second-order random waves in deep and finite water is reviewed. In particular, the increased nonlinear interactions with decreasing depth are addressed, including both the sum-frequency as well as the slowly varying difference-frequency components. Depth-defined limitations in the valid range for random waves are suggested based on the Ursell number. Numerical time series realizations at various depths and for two sea states are obtained by an efficient bifrequency summation procedure. Resulting time series show moderate average second-order energy contents, except for the steep sea state Hs = 15m, Tp = 14s in depths of 30m and 20m which are outside the suggested valid second-order range. The two largest wave events from the simulations are studied in particular for the different depths. Nonlinear interactions increase significantly with decreasing depth. Still, within the valid range, extreme second-order crests and peak particle velocities are only moderately increased with decreasing depth, while the negative peaks increase significantly. This is because the difference-frequency component almost compensates for the sum-frequency part at crests, while it is opposite at troughs. Maximum slopes, however, are clearly increased in shallow water, eventually leading to increased breaking (which is beyond second order of course). Velocity profiles under the crests are also shown, confirming the findings from the elevation.

Author(s):  
Guillaume de Hauteclocque ◽  
Flávia Rezende ◽  
Olaf Waals ◽  
Xiao-Bo Chen

The second order low-frequency loads are one of main sources of excitation for moored systems. These loads are usually decomposed into the quadratic part, contributed only by first order quantities and potential part contributed by the second order potentials. In shallow water the second order incoming and diffracted potentials give a significant contribution to the low frequency forces. Therefore, the accuracy on the determination of this parcel of the low-frequency loads is a key issue for the assessment of mooring lines and operability of systems moored in shallow water area, as for example LNG terminals. Due to the complexity in computing the second order diffraction potential, which would involve a non-homogeneous free surface boundary condition, the so-called Pinkster approximation has been proposed. This approximation is based on the assumption that the major contribution to the potential part of low-frequency loads is given by the second order potential of the undisturbed incoming waves. The methods to compute the wave forces related to the second order potentials are based on scaling of the first order wave induced forces. Another approximation recently formulated in Chen and Rezende consists of developing the second-order bi-frequency load into a series of different orders of the difference frequency. The potential contribution to the term proportional to the difference-frequency can be evaluated efficiently by involving an integral over a small zone on the free surface around the body. In the present paper, the existing approximations are revisited and compared to analytical solution of exact second-order load on a vertical cylinder and for the case of floating body (LNG) in shallow water. Some guidelines in the practical use of different approximations will be derived.


Author(s):  
Carl Trygve Stansberg ◽  
Trygve Kristiansen

Slowly varying motions and drift forces of a large moored ship in random waves at 35m water depth are investigated by an experimental wave basin study in scale 1:50. A simple horizontal mooring set-up is used. A second-order wave correction is applied to minimize “parasitic” long waves. The effect on the ship motion from the correction is clearly seen, although less in random wave spectra than in pure bi-chromatic waves. Empirical quadratic transfer functions (QTFs) of the surge drift force are found by use of cross-bi-spectral analysis, in two different spectra have been obtained. The QTF levels increase significantly with lower wave frequencies (except at the diagonal), which is special for finite and shallow water. Furthermore, the QTF levels frequencies at low frequencies increase significantly out from the QTF diagonal. Thus Newman’s approximation should preferrably not be used in these cases. Using the LF waves as a direct excitation in a “linear” ship force analysis gives random records that compare reasonably well with those from the cross-bi-spectral analysis. This confirms the idea that the drift forces in shallow water are closely correlated to the second-order potential, and thereby by the second-order LF waves.


Author(s):  
C. T. Stansberg ◽  
H. Braaten

The wave disturbance close to vertical columns is analysed. In particular, the deviations from linear predictions are investigated, by experimental as well as by numerical methods. Thus a second-order numerical diffraction model is established by means of a diffraction analysis code (WAMIT) and compared to model tests with a single, fixed column with diameter 16m. Tests in regular, bi-chromatic as well as irregular waves are run. Significant nonlinear effects are observed, especially in steep waves, with the maximum elevation in front of the column increasing from 11.5m in a linear prediction to around 19m, in a 12s regular wave with 22m wave height. The main nonlinear effects in front of the column are identified as second-order sum-frequency and difference-frequency terms, plus a significant nonlinear increase in the first harmonic component. The WAMIT prediction of the second-order effects agrees fairly well with the measurements, although with some overprediction and underprediction, respectively, of the sum-frequency and difference-frequency (LF and mean set-up) terms in the steepest waves. For the underprediction of the first harmonic, however, a theory beyond second order is required.


2018 ◽  
Vol 2018 ◽  
pp. 1-9 ◽  
Author(s):  
María Teresa Tejedor Sastre ◽  
Christian Vanhille

This paper studies the nonlinear resonance of a cavity filled with a nonlinear biphasic medium made of a liquid and gas bubbles at a frequency generated by nonlinear frequency mixing. The analysis is performed through numerical simulations by mixing two source signals of frequencies well below the bubble resonance. The finite-volume and finite-difference based model developed in the time domain simulates the nonlinear interaction of ultrasound and bubble dynamics via the resolution of a differential system formed by the wave and Rayleigh–Plesset equations. Some numerical results, consistent with the literature, validate our procedure. Other results reveal the existence of a frequency shift of the cavity resonance at the difference-frequency component, which rises with pressure amplitude and evidences the global changes undergone by the bubbly medium under finite amplitudes. Finally, this work shows the enhancement of the amplitude of the difference-frequency component generated by parametric excitation using the nonlinear resonance shift, which is more pronounced when the second primary frequency is constant, the first one is varied to match the nonlinear resonance, and both have the same amplitude.


2007 ◽  
Vol 579 ◽  
pp. 163-172 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. MICHAEL MILDER

The principal nonlinear correction to the dynamics of gravity waves on an irrotational fluid is traditionally derived as a non-resonant perturbation solution to the Stokes expansion. When the problem is reformulated in the Hamiltonian description and limited to moderately collimated random waves over infinite depth, the perturbation term assumes a very simple and descriptive form. The sum-frequency component for the surface height is just a bilinear product of the height with the associated scalar strain, and the accompanying term in the potential is half the time derivative of the squared linear height. This solution is exact in one surface dimension and remains quite accurate for long-crested waves in two dimensions, with an error small to second order in the angular spread of constituent wave vectors. It is a natural generalization for random, disordered wave ensembles of the second-order Stokes solution, and its effect is to sharpen the random crests and to flatten the troughs. For wave sets of narrow relative bandwidth the difference-frequency component consists of a negligible elevation term and a non-negligible potential term whose gradient is the surface value of the volume return flow balancing the quadratic wave transport of fluid.


Author(s):  
M. Hasanat Zaman ◽  
Heather Peng ◽  
Emile Baddour ◽  
Shane McKay

Accurate generation of the primary waves and the reproduction of the group-induced second-order low and high frequency waves have been considered essential for physical i.e. model test in the laboratory. In the laboratory when multi-chromatic primary waves are generated the required bounded waves will be generated naturally at the difference frequencies. In addition to that several unwanted free waves are also generated. The free waves, having the same frequencies of the bounded waves are reproduced due to mismatch of the boundary conditions at the wave paddle. The other two types of free waves are due to the wave paddle displacement and the local disturbances. We carried out physical experiments to identify the second order spurious waves in shallow water in the Offshore Engineering Basin (OEB) at the Institute for Ocean Technology (IOT) of National Research Council (NRC) Canada. In the basin water depths in the range of 0.4m to 0.6m are used for the experiments. The peak wave periods also have varied from 1.133s to 2.145s. In the experiments multi-chromatic waves are used. The drive signals of the wave-makers are generated using first-order and second-order wave generation techniques. Total 14 wave probes are used to capture the data in the wave tank. A NRC-IOT code is used to isolate the primary waves, the bounded waves and the unwanted free waves from the measured data at each wave probe. The measured data are analyzed in this paper to illustrate the differences in the waves generated by two different generation techniques.


Author(s):  
Dag Myrhaug ◽  
Carl Trygve Stansberg ◽  
Hanne Therese Wist

Statistics of the nonlinear free surface elevation as well as the nonlinear random wave kinematics in terms of the horizontal velocity component in arbitrary water depth are addressed. Two different methods are considered: a simplified analytical approach based on second-order Stokes wave theory including the sum-frequency effect only, and a second-order random wave model including both sum-frequency and difference-frequency effects. The paper compares results for the statistics of the nonlinear free surface, and the consequences of neglecting the difference-frequency effect in the first method are discussed.


Author(s):  
T. A. A. Adcock ◽  
P. H. Taylor

The directional spreading of sea states is an important design parameter in offshore engineering. Wave directionality affects the resulting wave kinematics, which affects the forces exerted on offshore structures. In this paper, we develop a method for estimating the amount of spreading, when the only information available is the time history of free surface elevation at a single point in space. We do this by predicting the second-order bound waves that occur at the difference in frequency of two freely propagating waves. The magnitude of these second-order bound waves is a function of the angle between the interacting waves. Thus, it is possible to infer some information about spreading from a single-point time history. We demonstrate that this approach works for wave groups in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank. We create a synthetic random sea state and introduce noise into the analysis and thus show that our approach is robust and insensitive to noise, even with a signal-to-noise ratio of unity in the difference waves. This approach is also applied to random waves in a physical wave tank where spreading was directly measured and also to a storm recorded in the North Sea. In all cases, we find our estimate of spreading is in good agreement with other measurements.


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