scholarly journals Calculation of the Accelerated Breaking-Roller Propagation Speed and Wave Energy Transfer to the Roller

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Takashi Okamoto ◽  
Conceic¸a˜o Juana Fortes
Keyword(s):  
Energy Transfer ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Propagation Speed ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Energy Calculation ◽  
Energy Transfer Rate ◽  
Wave Tank ◽  
Slow Decay ◽  
Wave Celerity

Wave breaking has different physics from the potential flow wave motion. The roller model introduced by Svendsen [1] illustrates the separation of the wave motion and the roller. The roller propagation speed, therefore, is a very important factor for the energy calculation of the bore. The wave celerity data collected at the wave tank displays that the maximum roller propagation speed occurs when the wave has already decayed due to the breaking. This fact clearly displays that the bore energy cannot be calculated only from the wave height as it is done for non-breaking waves. It is certain that most the energy is dissipated through the roller formation in the outer surfzone, but a certain amount of energy is transferred to the roller at the same time and it accelerates the bore speed. Slow decay of the roller propagation speed indicates that the excess energy left in the roller dissipates in the inner surfzone at much slower rate than in the outer surfzone. Therefore, these two zones have to be clearly separated, but the amount of energy transferred into the roller is unknown. In this paper, we focus on the examination of the peak roller propagation speed that appears at the border of the outer and the inner surfzone by using the experimental data collected at the wave tank. In that way, the initial condition of roller propagation speed can be determined for the inner surfzone. The energy conservation between the wave motion and the roller kinetic energy derives an equation to calculate the roller propagation speed. The energy transfer rate is estimated by adjusting the value given by the full energy conversion with the observed roller propagation speed. It is found that about half of the energy is transferred into the roller. The model successfully illustrates the peak bore propagation speed which existing formulae cannot explain.

scholarly journals LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON THE INFLUENCE OF WIND ON NEARSHORE WAVE BREAKING

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 46
Author(s):  
Scott L. Douglass ◽  
J. Richard Weggel
Keyword(s):  
Wind Direction ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Tank ◽  
Zone Width

The influence of wind on nearshore breaking waves was investigated in a laboratory wave tank. Breaker location, geometry, and type depended upon the wind acting on the wave as it broke. Onshore winds tended to cause waves to break earlier, in deeper water, and to spill: offshore winds tended to cause waves to break later, in shallower water, and to plunge. A change in wind direction from offshore to onshore increased the surf zone width by up to 100%. Wind's effect was greatest for waves which were near the transition between breaker types in the absence of wind. For onshore winds, it was observed that microscale breaking can initiate spilling breaking by providing a perturbation on the crest of the underlying wave as it shoals.

Acoustic Study of Wave-Breaking to Enhance the Understanding of Wave Physics

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Michael Odzer ◽  
Kristina Francke
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Video Data ◽  
Wave Tank ◽  
Potential Applications ◽  
Audio Data ◽  
Video And Audio ◽  
Bubble Sizes ◽  
Laboratory Tank

Abstract The sound of waves breaking on shore, or against an obstruction or jetty, is an immediately recognizable sound pattern which could potentially be employed by a sensor system to identify obstructions. If frequency patterns produced by breaking waves can be reproduced and mapped in a laboratory setting, a foundational understanding of the physics behind this process could be established, which could then be employed in sensor development for navigation. This study explores whether wave-breaking frequencies correlate with the physics behind the collapsing of the wave, and whether frequencies of breaking waves recorded in a laboratory tank will follow the same pattern as frequencies produced by ocean waves breaking on a beach. An artificial “beach” was engineered to replicate breaking waves inside a laboratory wave tank. Video and audio recordings of waves breaking in the tank were obtained, and audio of ocean waves breaking on the shoreline was recorded. The audio data was analysed in frequency charts. The video data was evaluated to correlate bubble sizes to frequencies produced by the waves. The results supported the hypothesis that frequencies produced by breaking waves in the wave tank followed the same pattern as those produced by ocean waves. Analysis utilizing a solution to the Rayleigh-Plesset equation showed that the bubble sizes produced by breaking waves were inversely related to the pattern of frequencies. This pattern can be reproduced in a controlled laboratory environment and extrapolated for use in developing navigational sensors for potential applications in marine navigation such as for use with autonomous ocean vehicles.

scholarly journals BORE PROPAGATION SPEED AT THE TERMINATION OF WAVE BREAKING

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 7 ◽  
Author(s):  
Takashi Okamoto ◽  
Conceição Juana Fortes ◽  
David R. Basco
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Propagation Speed ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Theoretical Models ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Mass Transportation ◽  
Higher Harmonics ◽  
Wave Celerity ◽  
Set Up

Wave breaking is the most important event in nearshore hydrodynamics because of the energy exertion and mass transportation during the event drive all the nearshore phenomena, such as wave set-up/down, long shore current, and nearshore circulation. Wave celerity is a key parameter in wave breaking especially for the mass transportation, the energy dissipation during the wave breaking event, and the wave breaking index calculation, for example. There are many models to calculate the wave celerity during the breaking event (bore propagation speed) and it is well known that the bore propagation speed is faster than that is given by linear wave theory. But Okamoto et al. (2008) found the bore propagation speed at the termination location of wave breaking becomes much slower than the theoretical estimation when the termination of wave breaking occurs on inversely sloped bottom. In this paper, the bore propagation speed at the termination location of wave breaking is examined with the experimental data collected in a wave tank with simplified bar-trough beach settings. Comparisons with theoretical models are presented. Fourier analysis is performed to investigate the evolution of higher harmonics and synthesized time series, which is a simple summation of linear wave components, is constructed by using the obtained information to calculate the wave celerity during and after the wave breaking. Calculation result reveals that as the breaking wave approaches to the termination, the bore propagation speed decreases towards the value which can be explained by the existence of slowly and independently propagating higher harmonics.

scholarly journals A SHORELINE MODEL FOR BREAKING WAVES

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 1
Author(s):  
Carlo Lo Re ◽  
Rosaria Ester Musumeci ◽  
Enrico Foti
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Type Model ◽  
Swash Zone ◽  
Rapid Variation ◽  
Physically Based Model ◽  
Physically Based ◽  
Numerical Instabilities ◽  
Friction Term

In order to simulate the wave motion and, in turn, the flow, within the nearshore region, in the last decades the derivation and the application of depth-integrated type of models have been widely investigated and developed. However, in such models, the problems of facing wave breaking and the moving shoreline are not trivial and therefore several approaches have been proposed. About wave breaking, approaches both based on the adoption of an artificial eddy viscosity Zelt (1991) and on the concept of roller Veeramony (2000), Karambas (2003), Musumeci (2005) have been implemented. As regards the shoreline boundary condition, a couple of numerical techniques have been mainly adopted, namely the porous beach method, also known as slot method Kennedy (2000), and the extrapolating method proposed by Lynett (2002). Such methods seems to be not very fiscally based. In the present work an effort toward a more physically based model of the surf and the swash zone (see Figure 1) has been accomplished. In particularly, a new version of the fixed grid shoreline model introduced by Prasad (2003) is proposed here and implemented in a Boussinesq type model for breaking waves Musumeci (2005). Moreover, in order to get over the numerical instabilities generated at the time of rapid variation of the flow, the aforementioned shoreline model has been coupled with the extrapolation method presented by Lynett, (2002) and a bottom friction term has been also included. To validate the model a classical test which adopts monochromatic waves along with other application with non breaking and breaking solitary waves have been performed.

PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Vertical Axis ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Spectral Structure ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Nonlinear Harmonics ◽  
The Waves

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.

scholarly journals Characteristics of Breaking Wave Forces on Piles over a Permeable Seabed

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (5) ◽  
pp. 520
Author(s):  
Zhenyu Liu ◽  
Zhen Guo ◽  
Yuzhe Dou ◽  
Fanyu Zeng
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Slope Angle ◽  
Wave Force ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Offshore Wind ◽  
Secondary Wave ◽  
Wave Forces ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Breaking Wave Forces

Most offshore wind turbines are installed in shallow water and exposed to breaking waves. Previous numerical studies focusing on breaking wave forces generally ignored the seabed permeability. In this paper, a numerical model based on Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations (VARANS) is employed to reveal the process of a solitary wave interacting with a rigid pile over a permeable slope. Through applying the Forchheimer saturated drag equation, effects of seabed permeability on fluid motions are simulated. The reliability of the present model is verified by comparisons between experimentally obtained data and the numerical results. Further, 190 cases are simulated and the effects of different parameters on breaking wave forces on the pile are studied systematically. Results indicate that over a permeable seabed, the maximum breaking wave forces can occur not only when waves break just before the pile, but also when a “secondary wave wall” slams against the pile, after wave breaking. With the initial wave height increasing, breaking wave forces will increase, but the growth can decrease as the slope angle and permeability increase. For inclined piles around the wave breaking point, the maximum breaking wave force usually occurs with an inclination angle of α = −22.5° or 0°.

scholarly journals Suppression of Wind Ripples and Microwave Backscattering Due to Turbulence Generated by Breaking Surface Waves

2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (21) ◽  
pp. 3618
Author(s):  
Stanislav Ermakov ◽  
Vladimir Dobrokhotov ◽  
Irina Sergievskaya ◽  
Ivan Kapustin
Keyword(s):  
Remote Sensing ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Doppler Spectrum ◽  
Strong Wave ◽  
Wave Maker ◽  
Radar Backscattering

The role of wave breaking in microwave backscattering from the sea surface is a problem of great importance for the development of theories and methods on ocean remote sensing, in particular for oil spill remote sensing. Recently it has been shown that microwave radar return is determined by both Bragg and non-Bragg (non-polarized) scattering mechanisms and some evidence has been given that the latter is associated with wave breaking, in particular, with strong breaking such as spilling or plunging. However, our understanding of mechanisms of the action of strong wave breaking on small-scale wind waves (ripples) and thus on the radar return is still insufficient. In this paper an effect of suppression of radar backscattering after strong wave breaking has been revealed experimentally and has been attributed to the wind ripple suppression due to turbulence generated by strong wave breaking. The experiments were carried out in a wind wave tank where a frequency modulated wave train of intense meter-decimeter-scale surface waves was generated by a mechanical wave maker. The wave train was compressed according to the gravity wave dispersion relation (“dispersive focusing”) into a short-wave packet at a given distance from the wave maker. Strong wave breaking with wave crest overturning (spilling) occurred for one or two highest waves in the packet. Short decimeter-centimeter-scale wind waves were generated at gentle winds, simultaneously with the long breaking waves. A Ka-band scatterometer was used to study microwave backscattering from the surface waves in the tank. The scatterometer looking at the area of wave breaking was mounted over the tank at a height of about 1 m above the mean water level, the incidence angle of the microwave radiation was about 50 degrees. It has been obtained that the radar return in the presence of short wind waves is characterized by the radar Doppler spectrum with a peak roughly centered in the vicinity of Bragg wave frequencies. The radar return was strongly enhanced in a wide frequency range of the radar Doppler spectrum when a packet of long breaking waves arrived at the area irradiated by the radar. After the passage of breaking waves, the radar return strongly dropped and then slowly recovered to the initial level. Measurements of velocities in the upper water layer have confirmed that the attenuation of radar backscattering after wave breaking is due to suppression of short wind waves by turbulence generated in the breaking zone. A physical analysis of the effect has been presented.

Theoretical studies of excitation dynamics in a peridinin-chlorophyll-protein coupled to a metallic nanoparticle

Open Physics ◽  
2011 ◽  
Vol 9 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Mikolaj Schmidt ◽  
Sebastian Mackowski
Keyword(s):  
Energy Transfer ◽  
Metallic Surface ◽  
Energy Transfer Rate ◽  
Metallic Nanoparticle ◽  
Light Harvesting Complex ◽  
Radiative Processes ◽  
Förster Energy Transfer ◽  
Chlorophyll Protein ◽  
Induced Changes ◽  
Excitation Dynamics

AbstractIn this work we study the influence of plasmon excitations on the excitation dynamics within a protein complex embedding two chlorophyll molecules coupled to a gold nanosphere. Small separation between the chlorophylls and metallic nanoparticle allows us to simplify the calculations of the Förster energy transfer rate and non-radiative processes by replacing a spherical nanoparticle with a metallic surface. Our results show modifications of all relevant processes and the energy transfer pathways within the system as well as the radiative processes. Plasmon induced changes result in strong qualitative effects of the fluorescence of the studied light-harvesting complex.

Extraction of energy transfer rate constants from the pulsed laser generated thermal lens spectrometer signal

1982 ◽  
Vol 80 ◽  
pp. 433-436 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.T. Bailey ◽  
F.R. Cruickshank ◽  
R. Guthrie ◽  
D. Pugh ◽  
I.J.M. Weir
Keyword(s):  
Energy Transfer ◽  
Thermal Lens ◽  
Rate Constants ◽  
Transfer Rate ◽  
Pulsed Laser ◽  
Energy Transfer Rate

scholarly journals Dynamics of Alfvén waves in partially ionized astrophysical plasmas

2009 ◽  
Vol 76 (3-4) ◽  
pp. 305-315 ◽  
Author(s):  
DASTGEER SHAIKH
Keyword(s):  
Energy Transfer ◽  
Fluid Model ◽  
Propagation Speed ◽  
Neutral Atoms ◽  
Astrophysical Plasmas ◽  
Exchange Processes ◽  
Consistent Model ◽  
Self Consistent ◽  
Partially Ionized ◽  
Energy Equations

AbstractWe develop a two dimensional, self-consistent, compressible fluid model to study evolution of Alfvenic modes in partially ionized astrophysical and space plasmas. The partially ionized plasma consists mainly of electrons, ions and significant neutral atoms. The nonlinear interactions amongst these species take place predominantly through direct collision or charge exchange processes. Our model uniquely describe the interaction processes between two distinctly evolving fluids. In our model, the electrons and ions are described by a single-fluid compressible magnetohydrodynamic (MHD) model and are coupled self-consistently to the neutral fluid via compressible hydrodynamic equations. Both plasma and neutral fluids are treated with different energy equations that adequately enable us to monitor non-adiabatic and thermal energy exchange processes between these two distinct fluids. Based on our self-consistent model, we find that the propagation speed of Alfvenic modes in space and astrophysical plasma is slowed down because these waves are damped predominantly due to direct collisions with the neutral atoms. Consequently, energy transfer takes place between plasma and neutral fluids. We describe the mode coupling processes that lead to the energy transfer between the plasma and neutral and corresponding spectral features.

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