A Unified Coupled-Mode Approach to Nonlinear Waves in Finite Depth: Potential Flow

Author(s):  
G. A. Athanassoulis ◽  
K. A. Belibassakis

A non-linear coupled-mode system of horizontal equations is presented, as derived from Luke’s (1967) variational principle, which models the evolution of nonlinear water waves in intermediate depth over a general bottom topography. The vertical structure of the wave field is represented by means of a complete local-mode series expansion of the wave potential. This series contains the usual propagating and evanescent modes, plus two additional terms, the free-surface mode and the sloping-bottom mode, enabling to consistently treat the non-vertical end-conditions at the free-surface and the bottom boundaries. The present coupled-mode system fully accounts for the effects of non-linearity and dispersion, and has the following main features: (i) various standard models of water-wave propagation are recovered by appropriate simplifications, and (ii) it exhibits fast convergenge, and thus, a small number of modes (up to 5) are usually enough for the precise numerical solution, provided that the two new modes (the free-surface and the sloping-bottom ones) are included in the local-mode series. In the present work, the coupled-mode system is applied to the numerical investigation of families of steady traveling wave solutions in constant depth, corresponding to a wide range of water depths, ranging from intermediate to shallow-water wave conditions and its results are compared vs. Stokes and cnoidal wave theories, respectively. Also, numerical results are presented for waves propagating over variable bathymetry regions and compared with second-order Stokes theory and experimental data.

Author(s):  
Gerassimos A. Athanassoulis ◽  
Konstandinos A. Belibassakis

A non-linear coupled-mode system of horizontal equations is derived with the aid of Luke’s (1967) variational principle, which models the evolution of nonlinear water waves in intermediate depth over a general bathymetry. The vertical structure of the wave field is exactly represented by means of a local-mode series expansion of the wave potential, Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (2000). This series contains the usual propagating and evanescent modes, plus two additional modes, the free-surface mode and the sloping-bottom mode, enabling to consistently treat the non-vertical end-conditions at the free-surface and the bottom boundaries. The system fully accounts for the effects of non-linearity and dispersion.


Author(s):  
K. A. Belibassakis ◽  
G. A. Athanassoulis

A non-linear coupled-mode system of horizontal equations has been derived with the aid of Luke’s (1967) variational principle, modelling the evolution of nonlinear water waves in intermediate depth and over a general bathymetry Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (2002, 2008). Following previous work by the authors in the case of linearised water waves (Athanassoulis & Belibassakis 1999), the vertical structure of the wave field is exactly represented by means of a local-mode series expansion of the wave potential. This series contains the usual propagating and evanescent modes, plus two additional modes, the free-surface mode and the sloping-bottom mode, enabling to consistently treat the non-vertical end-conditions at the free-surface and the bottom boundaries. The coupled-mode system fully accounts for the effects of non-linearity and dispersion. The main feature of this approach that a small number of modes (of the order of 5–6) are enough for the precise numerical solution, provided that the two new modes (the free-surface and the sloping-bottom ones) are included in the local-mode series. The consistent coupled-mode system has been applied to numerical investigation of families of steady nonlinear travelling wave solutions in constant depth (Athanassoulis & Belibassakis 2007) showing good agreement with known solutions both in the Stokes and the cnoidal wave regimes. In the present work we focus on the hydroelastic analysis of floating bodies lying over variable bathymetry regions, with application to the non-linear scattering of water waves by large floating structures (of VLFS type or ice sheets) characterised by variable thickness (draft), flexural rigidity and mass distributions, modelled as thin plates of variable thickness, extending previous approaches (see, e.g., Porter & Porter 2004, Belibassakis & Athanassoulis 2005, 2006, Bennets et al 2007). Numerical examples are presented, showing that useful results can be obtained for the analysis of large floating elastic bodies or structures very efficiently by keeping only a few terms in the expansion. Ideas for extending our approach to 3D are also discussed.


1994 ◽  
Vol 278 ◽  
pp. 229-249 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. V. Evans ◽  
C. M. Linton

The scattering of water waves by a varying bottom topography is considered using two-dimensional linear water-wave theory. A new approach is adopted in which the problem is first transformed into a uniform strip resulting in a variable free-surface boundary condition. This is then approximated by a finite number of sections on which the free-surface boundary condition is assumed to be constant. A transition matrix theory is developed which is used to relate the wave amplitudes at ±∞. The method is checked against examples for which the solution is known, or which can be computed by alternative means. Results show that the method provides a simple accurate technique for scattering problems of this type.


Author(s):  
Biswajit Basu ◽  
Calin I. Martin

AbstractWe are concerned here with an analysis of the nonlinear irrotational gravity water wave problem with a free surface over a water flow bounded below by a flat bed. We employ a new formulation involving an expression (called flow force) which contains pressure terms, thus having the potential to handle intricate surface dynamic boundary conditions. The proposed formulation neither requires the graph assumption of the free surface nor does require the absence of stagnation points. By way of this alternative approach we prove the existence of a local curve of solutions to the water wave problem with fixed flow force and more relaxed assumptions.


Author(s):  
Didier Clamond

Steady two-dimensional surface capillary–gravity waves in irrotational motion are considered on constant depth. By exploiting the holomorphic properties in the physical plane and introducing some transformations of the boundary conditions at the free surface, new exact relations and equations for the free surface only are derived. In particular, a physical plane counterpart of the Babenko equation is obtained. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


Author(s):  
Nikolai I. Makarenko

The fully nonlinear problem on unsteady two-dimensional water waves generated by elliptic cylinder, that is horizontally submerged beneath a free surface, is considered. An analytical boundary integral equations method using a version of Milne-Thomson transformation is developed. Boundary equations (the BEq system) determine immediately exact wave elevation and fluid velocity at free surface. Small-time solution expansion is obtained in the case of accelerated cylinder starting from rest.


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Julien Touboul ◽  
Kostas Belibassakis

<p>In coastal areas, steep bathymetries and strong currents are often observed. Among several causes, the presence of cliffs, rocky beds, or human structures may cause strong variations of the sea bed, while oceanic circulation, tides, wind action or wave breaking can be responsible for the generation of strong currents. For both coastal safety and engineering purposes, there are many interests in providing efficient models predicting the nonlinear, phase resolved behavior of water waves in such areas. The difficulty is known to be important, and many models achieving that goal are described in the related literature.</p><p>Recently, it was established that beneath the influence of vertically uniform currents, the vorticity involved in depth varying mean flows could have significant impact on the propagation of water waves (Rey et al. 2014). This gave rise to new derivations of equations aimed to describe this interaction. First, an extended mild slope equation was obtained (Touboul et al. 2016). Then, the now classical coupled mode theory was introduced in the system to obtain a set of coupled equations, which could be compared to the system derived by Belibassakis et al (2011) but considering currents which may present constant shear with depth (Belibassakis et al. 2017, Belibassakis et al., 2019). In these works, the currents were assumed to vary linearly with depth, presenting a constant shear. However, this approach was recently extended to more general configurations (Belibassakis & Touboul, 2019; Touboul & Belibassakis, 2019).</p><p>In this work, we extend this model to three dimensional configurations. It is emphasized that the model is able to describe rotational waves, as expected, for example, when water waves propagate with a non-zero angle with respect to the current direction (see e.g. Ellingsen, 2016).</p><p>[1] Rey, V., Charland, J., Touboul, J., Wave – current interaction in the presence of a 3d bathymetry: deep water wave focusing in opposite current conditions. Phys. Fluids 26, 096601, 2014.</p><p>[2] Touboul J., Charland J., Rey V., Belibassakis K., Extended Mild-Slope equation for surface waves interacting with a vertically sheared current, Coastal Engineering, 116, 77–88, 2016.</p><p>[3] Belibassakis, K.A., Gerostathis, Th., Athanassoulis, G.A. A coupled-mode model for water wave scattering by horizontal, non-homogeneous current in general bottom topography, Applied Ocean Res. 33, 384– 397, 2011.</p><p>[4] Belibassakis K.A., Simon B., Touboul J., Rey V., A coupled-mode model for water wave scattering by vertically sheared currents in variable bathymetry regions, Wave Motion, vol.74, 73-92, 2017.</p><p>[5] Belibassakis K., Touboul J., Laffitte E., Rey  V., A mild-slope system for Bragg scattering of water waves by sinusoidal bathymetry in the presence of vertically sheared currents,  J. Mar. Sci. Eng., Vol.7(1), 9, 2019.</p><p>[6] Belibassakis K.A., Touboul J. A nonlinear coupled-mode model for waves propagating in</p><p>vertically sheared currents in variable bathymetry-collinear waves and currents, Fluids, 4(2),</p><p>61, 2019.</p><p>[7] J. Touboul & K. Belibassakis, A novel method for water waves propagating in the presence of vortical mean flows over variable bathymetry, J. Ocean Eng. and Mar. Energy, https://doi.org/10.1007/s40722-019-00151-w, 2019.</p><p>[8] Ellingsen, S.A., Oblique waves on a vertically sheared current are rotational, Eur. J. Mech. B-Fluid 56, 156–160, 2016.</p>


Energies ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 11 (8) ◽  
pp. 2092 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kostas Belibassakis ◽  
Markos Bonovas ◽  
Eugen Rusu

A numerical model is presented for the estimation of Wave Energy Converter (WEC) performance in variable bathymetry regions, taking into account the interaction of the floating units with the bottom topography. The proposed method is based on a coupled-mode model for the propagation of the water waves over the general bottom topography, in combination with a Boundary Element Method for the treatment of the diffraction/radiation problems and the evaluation of the flow details on the local scale of the energy absorbers. An important feature of the present method is that it is free of mild bottom slope assumptions and restrictions and it is able to resolve the 3D wave field all over the water column, in variable bathymetry regions including the interactions of floating bodies of general shape. Numerical results are presented concerning the wave field and the power output of a single device in inhomogeneous environment, focusing on the effect of the shape of the floater. Extensions of the method to treat the WEC arrays in variable bathymetry regions are also presented and discussed.


Author(s):  
C. P. Vendhan ◽  
P. Sunny Kumar ◽  
P. Krishnankutty

Design of floating structures exposed to water waves often requires nonlinear analysis because of high wave steepness and large body motion. In this context, Mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian (MEL) methods for nonlinear water wave problems based on the potential flow theory have been studied extensively. Here, the Laplace equation with Dirichlet boundary condition on the free surface is solved using the boundary integral method, and a time integration method is used to find the particle displacements and velocity potential on the free surface. Finite element methods based on the MEL formulation have been developed in the 90s. Several researchers have pursued this approach, addressing the various challenges thrown open, such as velocity computation, pressure computation on moving surfaces, remeshing of the computational domain, smoothing and imposition of radiation condition. Apart from these, the implementation of the FE model in particular involves several computational issues such as element property computation, solution of large banded matrix equations, and efficient organization of computer storage, all of which are crucial for the computational tool to become successful. A study of these aspects constitutes the primary focus of the present work. The authors have recently developed a 3-D FE model employing the MEL formulation, which has been applied to predict waves in a flume and basin. The fluid domain is discretized using 20-node hexahedral elements. The free surface equations are solved in the time domain employing the three-point Adams-Bashforth method. Validation of the numerical model and relative computation times for salient steps in the FE model are discussed in the paper.


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