Intercomparison of Wave Data Between Triaxys Directional Wave Buoy, ADCP, and Other Reference Wave Instruments

2005 ◽  
Author(s):  
H. H. Shih ◽  
C. Long ◽  
M. Bushnell ◽  
K. Hathaway
Keyword(s):  
Chesapeake Bay ◽  
Pressure Sensor ◽  
Sensor Array ◽  
Field Tests ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
The Us ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights ◽  
Directional Wave

The use of Triaxys directional wave buoy and acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) for wave measurements are relatively recent. The US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s (NOAA) National Ocean Service (NOS) acquired these instruments in 2001 and systematic laboratory and field tests were conducted during 2001–2002. This paper describes the field tests conducted near the US Army Corps of Engineers’ Field Research Facility (FRF) ocean pier and near the Barren Islands in the Chesapeake Bay. At the FRF site, Triaxys buoy wave measurements were compared with FRF’s field standards of pressure sensor arrays and Datawell Waverider buoy. For the Bay test, ADCP was compared with the Triaxys buoy. There are significant numbers of outlier in the Triaxys peak periods at both test sites. In the Chesapeake Bay, which is dominated by high frequency and low energy waves, there is much scatter in the Triaxys data for significant wave heights below 0.2 m. Detailed analyses were performed after these outliers and noisy data were removed. Statistics of differences in significant wave heights, peak periods and directions between each comparative pair were computed and characteristics of frequency and frequency-direction spectra were examined. Overall, correlations between each instrument pair are very good in significant wave heights, fair in wave peak periods (except the ADCP/Triaxys pair), and marginal in wave directions. Triaxys buoy compared better with Waverider buoy than with others. Both ADCP and FRF pressure sensor array exhibit higher resolution in detecting multi-modal and multi-frequency waves. In most cases, energy distribution of spectral peaks in Triaxys buoy data differs significantly from those obtained from FRF pressure sensor array and ADCP.

scholarly journals On the retrieval of significant wave heights from spaceborne Synthetic Aperture Radar (ERS-SAR) using the Max-Planck Institut (MPI) algorithm

2005 ◽  
Vol 77 (4) ◽  
pp. 745-755 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nelson Violante-Carvalho
Keyword(s):  
Data Assimilation ◽  
Synthetic Aperture Radar ◽  
Synthetic Aperture ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Max Planck ◽  
Sar Images ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights ◽  
Directional Wave

Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) onboard satellites is the only source of directional wave spectra with continuous and global coverage. Millions of SAR Wave Mode (SWM) imagettes have been acquired since the launch in the early 1990's of the first European Remote Sensing Satellite ERS-1 and its successors ERS-2 and ENVISAT, which has opened up many possibilities specially for wave data assimilation purposes. The main aim of data assimilation is to improve the forecasting introducing available observations into the modeling procedures in order to minimize the differences between model estimates and measurements. However there are limitations in the retrieval of the directional spectrum from SAR images due to nonlinearities in the mapping mechanism. The Max-Planck Institut (MPI) scheme, the first proposed and most widely used algorithm to retrieve directional wave spectra from SAR images, is employed to compare significant wave heights retrieved from ERS-1 SAR against buoy measurements and against the WAM wave model. It is shown that for periods shorter than 12 seconds the WAM model performs better than the MPI, despite the fact that the model is used as first guess to the MPI method, that is the retrieval is deteriorating the first guess. For periods longer than 12 seconds, the part of the spectrum that is directly measured by SAR, the performance of the MPI scheme is at least as good as the WAM model.

scholarly journals Numerical Analysis of the Effect of Binary Typhoons on Ocean Surface Waves in Waters Surrounding Taiwan

2021 ◽  
Vol 8 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tzu-Yin Chang ◽  
Hongey Chen ◽  
Shih-Chun Hsiao ◽  
Han-Lun Wu ◽  
Wei-Bo Chen
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Ocean Surface ◽  
Separation Distance ◽  
Ocean Surface Waves ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Storm Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights ◽  
The One ◽  
Along Track

The ocean surface waves during Super Typhoons Maria (2018), Lekima (2019), and Meranti (2016) were reproduced using hybrid typhoon winds and a fully coupled wave-tide-circulation modeling system (SCHISM-WWM-III). The hindcasted significant wave heights are in good agreement with the along-track significant wave heights measured by the altimeters aboard the SARAL (Satellite with ARgos and ALtiKa) and Jason-2 satellites. Two numerical experiments pairing Super Typhoons Maria (2018) and Meranti (2016) and Super Typhoons Lekima (2019) and Meranti (2016) were conducted to analyze the storm wave characteristics of binary and individual typhoons. Four points located near the tracks of the three super typhoons were selected to elucidate the effects of binary typhoons on ocean surface waves. The comparisons indicate that binary typhoons not only cause an increase in the significant wave height simulations at four selected pints but also result in increases in the one-dimensional wave energy and two-dimensional directional wave spectra. Our results also reveal that the effects of binary typhoons on ocean surface waves are more significant at the periphery of the typhoon than near the center of the typhoon. The interactions between waves generated by Super Typhoons Maria (2018) and Meranti (2016) or Super Typhoons Lekima (2019) and Meranti (2016) might be diminished by Taiwan Island even if the separation distance between two typhoons is <700 km.

scholarly journals HYDRODYNAMIC AND BOUSSINESQ WAVE MODELING FOR THE N219 AMPHIBIOUS AIRCRAFT SEAPLANE DOCK DEVELOPMENT PLAN IN PANJANG ISLAND

2021 ◽  
Vol 15 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Hanah Khoirunnisa ◽  
Mardi Wibowo ◽  
Wahyu Hendriyono ◽  
Khusnul Setia Wardani
Keyword(s):  
Flight Test ◽  
The Other ◽  
Waveform Modeling ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Other Hand ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Mike 21

The flight test of N219 Amphibious aircraft will be targeted in 2003/2024. For flight tests, these aircraft need a seaplane dock. One of the potential locations for the seaplane dock is Panjang Island at Seribu Islands. This study aims to know the characteristic of hydrodynamic and wave conditions and to determine whether Panjang Island is suitable for the seaplane dock. This study uses a modeling method with MIKE 21 FM HD-SW module and MIKE 21 Boussinesq Wave (BW)  module. The bathymetry data were obtained from the Indonesian Navy Hydrographic and Oceanographic Center (Pushidrosal), tide data is generated from Tide Model Driver (TMD), wave and wind data from ECMWF. The result of surface elevation validation between hydrodynamic modeling and TMD is 92%. During the west monsoon and spring conditions, the difference in the largest and lowest current velocity is quite large (0.018-0.199 m/s), on the other hand, when the tides are in neap conditions (0.008-0.144 m/s). Meanwhile, during the east monsoon and spring conditions, the difference in the largest and lowest current velocities is quite large (0.02-0.193 m/s), on the other hand, when the tides are in neap conditions (0.008-0.146 m/s). The maximum wave height resulting from the 50-year return period waveform modeling between 1.139 - 1.474 m. Meanwhile, the significant wave heights between 0.679 - 0.741 with a significant wave period of 13.45 seconds. In general, the current and wave conditions of the two locations are suitable for the construction of the seaplane dock, except that the dominant wave heights are still above the requirements.

An Idealization of Wave Scatter Diagram for Spectral Fatigue Analysis

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Min Han Oh ◽  
Ki Myung Lee ◽  
Young Sik Jang
Keyword(s):  
Fatigue Analysis ◽  
Scatter Diagram ◽  
Analysis Method ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Environmental Loads ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Spectral Models ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights

A spectral fatigue analysis method is most popularly applied for the detailed design of FPSOs. As the environmental loads at the installation site are directly calculated in the spectral analysis, this method gives the most reliable results although it needs much time-consuming works to fully reflect the environmental loads. As the technology of wave measurements advances, the measured wave data increase. Also their spectral models are very complicated because these include many wave components such as swells and wind seas. Since much time and effort are needed to treat these enormous and complicated wave data for the spectral fatigue analysis, a rational idealization of wave data is definitely required. In this paper, wave scatter diagram at Offshore Nigeria was reviewed and their idealization method was proposed. The influence level of each sea state of the wave scatter diagram was identified considering the fatigue damage levels estimated from the significant wave heights and dominant fatigue load RAOs. The sea states giving small fatigue damages were lumped symmetrically by merging or disregarding while those giving large fatigue damages were kept as original. For the validation of this method, the comparisons of dominant fatigue loads and representative fatigue damages were presented for the idealized wave scatter diagram and the original one. From these comparison works, it was confirmed that the idealized wave scatter diagram gives reliable results with reduced amount of calculation work.

Wave climate change in the Gulf of Bothnia

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jan-Victor Björkqvist ◽  
Jani Särkkä ◽  
Hedi Kanarik ◽  
Laura Tuomi
Keyword(s):  
Climate Change ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Atmospheric Forcing ◽  
Simulation Data ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Gulf Of Bothnia ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights ◽  
Projected Changes

<p>Wave climate change in the Gulf of Bothnia in 2030–2059 was investigated using regional wave climate projections. For the simulations we used wave model WAM. As the atmospheric forcing for the wave model we had three global climate scenarios (HADGEM2-ES, MPI-ESM, EC-EARTH) downscaled with RCA4-NEMO regional model. The ice concentration for the wave model was obtained from NEMO ocean model simulations using the same atmospheric forcing. We used both RCP4.5 and RCP8.5 greenhouse gas scenarios. The spatial resolution of the simulation data was 1.8 km, enabling detailed analyses of the wave properties near the coast. From the simulation data we calculated statistics and return levels of significant wave heights using extreme value analysis, and assessed the projected changes in the wave climate in the Gulf of Bothnia. The projected increase in the significant wave heights is mainly due to the decreasing ice cover, especially in the Bothnian Bay. Projected changes in the most prevalent wind direction impacts the spatial pattern of the wave heights in the Bothnian Sea.</p>

scholarly journals Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment

2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (22) ◽  
pp. 3689
Author(s):  
Iain Fairley ◽  
Jose Horrillo-Caraballo ◽  
Ian Masters ◽  
Harshinie Karunarathna ◽  
Dominic E. Reeve
Keyword(s):  
Spatial Scales ◽  
Coastal Dunes ◽  
Sediment Supply ◽  
Tidal Range ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Dune System ◽  
Pressure Transducers ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights

Coastal dunes have global importance as ecological habitats, recreational areas, and vital natural coastal protection. Dunes evolve due to variations in the supply and removal of sediment via both wind and waves, and on stabilization through vegetation colonization and growth. One aspect of dune evolution that is poorly understood is the longshore variation in dune response to morphodynamic forcing, which can occur over small spatial scales. In this paper, a fixed wing unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV), is used to measure the longshore variation in evolution of a dune system in a megatidal environment. Dune sections to the east and west of the study site are prograding whereas the central portion is static or eroding. The measured variation in dune response is compared to mesoscale intertidal bar migration and short-term measurements of longshore variation in wave characteristics during two storms. Intertidal sand bar migration is measured using satellite imagery: crescentic intertidal bars are present in front of the accreting portion of the beach to the west and migrate onshore at a rate of 0.1–0.2 m/day; episodically the eastern end of the bar detaches from the main bar and migrates eastward to attach near the eastern end of the study area; bypassing the central eroding section. Statistically significant longshore variation in intertidal wave heights were measured using beachface mounted pressure transducers: the largest significant wave heights are found in front of the dune section suffering erosion. Spectral differences were noted with more narrow-banded spectra in this area but differences are not statistically significant. These observations demonstrate the importance of three-dimensionality in intertidal beach morphology on longshore variation in dune evolution; both through longshore variation in onshore sediment supply and through causing longshore variation in near-dune significant wave heights.

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