Interaction of a Solitary Wave With a Vertical Permeable Elliptical Breakwater

Author(s):  
A. Basmat

In this paper the diffraction of a plane first-order solitary wave by a vertical permeable breakwater with calculation of the wave loading is investigated. The interaction between long non-linear water waves and dissipative/absorbing coastal structures that are commonly used in coastal engineering is investigated using both analytical and numerical technique. The breakwater consists of a vertical permeable surface-piercing elliptical cylinder fixed in the ground. The analytical model herein is based on the application of Boussinesq equations to describe the diffraction of the first-order solitary wave by an elliptical breakwater. The method of solution is based on perturbation theory, using a perturbation parameter defined in terms of surface geometry of the cylinder. The analysis includes terms up to the first-order in this parameter, where the zeroth-order solution corresponds to a circular cylinder. The velocity potentials at the zeroth and first orders are expressed as eigenfunction expansion involving unknown coefficients that are determined through the boundary conditions on unperturbed cylinder. The flow through the porous breakwater is assumed to obey Darcy’s law. The total force onto the elliptical cylinder is obtained by integration of the pressure over permeable cylindrical wall. The analytical solution is obtained by means of a Fourier transformation technique. The effects of porosity, relative wave length and the incident wave angle are discussed. Numerical results compare well with previous predictions for the limiting cases of a permeable cylindrical breakwater.

2018 ◽  
Vol 5 (1) ◽  
pp. 31-36
Author(s):  
Md Monirul Islam ◽  
Muztuba Ahbab ◽  
Md Robiul Islam ◽  
Md Humayun Kabir

For many solitary wave applications, various approximate models have been proposed. Certainly, the most famous solitary wave equations are the K-dV, BBM and Boussinesq equations. The K-dV equation was originally derived to describe shallow water waves in a rectangular channel. Surprisingly, the equation also models ion-acoustic waves and magneto-hydrodynamic waves in plasmas, waves in elastic rods, equatorial planetary waves, acoustic waves on a crystal lattice, and more. If we describe all of the above situation, we must be needed a solution function of their governing equations. The Tan-cot method is applied to obtain exact travelling wave solutions to the generalized Korteweg-de Vries (gK-dV) equation and generalized Benjamin-Bona- Mahony (BBM) equation which are important equations to evaluate wide variety of physical applications. In this paper we described the soliton behavior of gK-dV and BBM equations by analytical system especially using Tan-cot method and shown in graphically. GUB JOURNAL OF SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING, Vol 5(1), Dec 2018 P 31-36


Author(s):  
A. Basmat

The purpose of this paper is to develop mathematical models to investigate the interaction between long non-linear water waves and dissipative/absorbing coastal structures. The diffraction of a plane second-order solitary wave at a vertical permeable plane barrier standing in front of an impermeable wall, with calculation of the second-order wave loading is investigated. An incident plane second-order solitary wave is the Laitone solution of Boussinesq equations. The analytical solution is obtained by means of a small parameter development and Fourier transformation techniques. Computational results were performed using the software MATHEMATICA version 4.0.1.0.


Author(s):  
A. Basmat ◽  
M. Markiewicz ◽  
S. Petersen

In this paper the interaction of a plane second order solitary wave with an array of four vertical cylinders is investigated. The fluid is assumed to be incompressible and inviscid. The diffraction analysis assumes irrotationality, which allows for the use of Boussinesq equations. A simultaneous expansion in a small nonlinearity parameter (wave amplitude/depth) and small dispersion parameter (depth/horizontal scale) is performed. Boussinesq models, which describe weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive long waves, are characterized by the assumption that the nonlinearity and dispersion are both small and of the same order. An incident plane second order solitary wave is the Laitone solution of Boussinesq equations. The representation of variables as the series of small nonlinearity parameters leads to the sequence of linear boundary value problems of increasing order. The first order approximation can be determined as a solution of homogeneous differential equations and the second order approximation follows as a solution of non-homogeneous differential equations, where the right hand sides may be computed from the first order solution. For the case of a single cylinder an analytical solution exists. However, when dealing with more complex cylinder configurations, one has to employ numerical techniques. In this contribution a finite element approach combined with an appropriate time stepping scheme is used to model the wave propagation around an array of four surface piercing vertical cylinders. The velocity potential, the free surface elevation and the subsequent evolution of the scattered field are computed. Furthermore, the total second order wave forces on each individual cylinder are determined. The effect of the incident wave angle is discussed.


Although the first-order pressure variations in surface waves on water are known to decrease exponentially downwards, it has recently been shown theoretically that in a standing wave there should be some second-order terms which are unattenuated with depth. The present paper describes experiments which verify the existence of pressure variations of this type in waves of period 0·45 to 0·50 sec. When the motion consists of two progressive waves of equal wave-length travelling in opposite directions, the amplitude of the unattenuated pressure variations is found to be proportional to the product of the wave amplitudes. This property is used to determine the coefficient of reflexion from a sloping plane barrier.


Author(s):  
J. W. Kim ◽  
K. J. Bai ◽  
R. C. Ertekin ◽  
W. C. Webster

Recently, the authors have derived a new approximate model for the nonlinear water waves, the Irrotational Green-Naghdi (IGN) model. In this paper, we first derive the IGN equations applicable to variable water depth, then perform numerical tests to show whether and how fast the solution of the IGN model converges to the true solution as its level increases. The first example given is the steady solution of the progressive waves of permanent form, which includes the small amplitude sinusoidal wave, the solitary wave and the nonlinear Stokes wave. The second example is the run-up of a solitary wave on a vertical wall. The last example is the shoaling of a wave train over a sloping beach. In each numerical test, the self-convergence of the IGN model is shown first. Then the converged solution is compared to the known analytic solutions and/or solutions of other approximate models such as the KdV and the Boussinesq equations.


2003 ◽  
Vol 125 (1) ◽  
pp. 25-32 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. W. Kim ◽  
K. J. Bai ◽  
R. C. Ertekin ◽  
W. C. Webster

Recently, the authors have derived a new approximate model for the nonlinear water waves, the Irrotational Green-Naghdi (IGN) model. In this paper, we first derive the IGN equations applicable to variable water depth, and then perform numerical tests to show whether and how fast the solution of the IGN model converges to the true solution as its level increases. The first example given is the steady solution of progressive waves of permanent form, which includes the small-amplitude sinusoidal wave, the solitary wave and the nonlinear Stokes wave. The second example is the run-up of a solitary wave on a vertical wall. The last example is the shoaling of a wave train over a sloping beach. In each numerical test, the self-convergence of the IGN model is shown first. Then the converged solution is compared to the known analytic solutions and/or solutions of other approximate models such as the KdV and the Boussinesq equations.


Modern applications of water-wave studies, as well as some recent theoretical developments, have shown the need for a systematic and accurate calculation of the characteristics of steady, progressive gravity waves of finite amplitude in water of arbitrary uniform depth. In this paper the speed, momentum, energy and other integral properties are calculated accurately by means of series expansions in terms of a perturbation parameter whose range is known precisely and encompasses waves from the lowest to the highest possible. The series are extended to high order and summed with Padé approximants. For any given wavelength and depth it is found that the highest wave is not the fastest. Moreover the energy, momentum and their fluxes are found to be greatest for waves lower than the highest. This confirms and extends the results found previously for solitary and deep-water waves. By calculating the profile of deep-water waves we show that the profile of the almost-steepest wave, which has a sharp curvature at the crest, intersects that of a slightly less-steep wave near the crest and hence is lower over most of the wavelength. An integration along the wave profile cross-checks the Padé-approximant results and confirms the intermediate energy maximum. Values of the speed, energy and other integral properties are tabulated in the appendix for the complete range of wave steepnesses and for various ratios of depth to wavelength, from deep to very shallow water.


2009 ◽  
Vol 75 (5) ◽  
pp. 593-607 ◽  
Author(s):  
SK. ANARUL ISLAM ◽  
A. BANDYOPADHYAY ◽  
K. P. DAS

AbstractA theoretical study of the first-order stability analysis of an ion–acoustic solitary wave, propagating obliquely to an external uniform static magnetic field, has been made in a plasma consisting of warm adiabatic ions and a superposition of two distinct populations of electrons, one due to Cairns et al. and the other being the well-known Maxwell–Boltzmann distributed electrons. The weakly nonlinear and the weakly dispersive ion–acoustic wave in this plasma system can be described by the Korteweg–de Vries–Zakharov–Kuznetsov (KdV-ZK) equation and different modified KdV-ZK equations depending on the values of different parameters of the system. The nonlinear term of the KdV-ZK equation and the different modified KdV-ZK equations is of the form [φ(1)]ν(∂φ(1)/∂ζ), where ν = 1, 2, 3, 4; φ(1) is the first-order perturbed quantity of the electrostatic potential φ. For ν = 1, we have the usual KdV-ZK equation. Three-dimensional stability analysis of the solitary wave solutions of the KdV-ZK and different modified KdV-ZK equations has been investigated by the small-k perturbation expansion method of Rowlands and Infeld. For ν = 1, 2, 3, the instability conditions and the growth rate of instabilities have been obtained correct to order k, where k is the wave number of a long-wavelength plane-wave perturbation. It is found that ion–acoustic solitary waves are stable at least at the lowest order of the wave number for ν = 4.


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