Reconstruction and Analysis of Freak Waves Generated From Unidirectional Random Waves

2020 ◽  
Vol 142 (4) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Changfu Yuan ◽  
Congfang Ai ◽  
Guohai Dong

Abstract The generation of two freak waves in a broadband and a narrowband random series registered in the experiments of Li, J. X., Li, P. F., and Liu, S. X. (2013, “Observations of Freak Waves in Random Wave Field in 2D Experimental Wave Flume,” China Ocean Eng., 27(5), pp. 659–670) is precisely reconstructed using a fully non-hydrostatic water wave model. The simulation results indicate that even when the background spectral bandwidths are different, the evolution processes of the two freak waves are similar. Both freak waves emerge quickly during the transition from normal states to extreme events. The freak waves can persist over a long distance, i.e., approximately 5 peak wavelengths. The reconstructed time series in both the backward and forward locations at which the freak waves were recorded reveal that the largest freak wave crests were not captured in the experiment. The freak waves gradually emerged from an intense wave group. The waves developed quickly during the transition from a normal state to an extreme event. Very deep troughs were also formed in the evolution process. The two freak waves were actually generated via different spectral bandwidth processes, but the generation mechanisms of the rogue waves were similar. By analyzing the time series of the freak wave groups, the formation of the freak waves is found to result from the combined effect of the dispersive focusing, the third-order resonant wave interactions, and the higher harmonics.

Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Ruili Fu ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Qiannan Du

Freak waves, also called rogue waves and giant waves, are much larger and steeper than the surrounding waves, can cause severe accidents, and can be formed in both coastal and offshore regions. The past researchers on freak waves in coastal regions are mainly focused on the statistical properties, and the generation mechanism of such large waves are not yet discussed intensively. The aim of the present study is to examine the generation process of freak waves in unidirectional propagating random waves over a submerged bar using a fully nonlinear numerical wave model, SWASH. It was found that freak waves are readily formed at the seaward part of the crest of the bar and gradually emerged from an intense wave group. The enhancement of the bound higher harmonics in the shoaling process is the main reason to form such large waves in shallow water. On the crest bar of the bathymetry, the extreme wave gradually vanished, mainly due to the releasing of bound higher-harmonics to free wave components.


Author(s):  
Elzbieta M. Bitner-Gregersen ◽  
O̸istein Hagen

Recently significant interest has been paid to abnormal waves, often called rogue waves or freak waves. These waves represent operational risks to ship and offshore structures, and are likely to be responsible for a number of accidents. As shown by several authors, in ‘the second order world’ the freak waves are pretty rare events. The present study focuses on statistical properties of freak waves. The analyses are based on second order time domain simulations, short term distributions for crest statistics obtained from the literature, and long term field data. Time series of wave elevations are generated using the Pierson-Moskowitz, JONSWAP and two-peak Torsethaugen frequency spectrum for long-crested seas and deep water. Effects of combined seas (swell and wind sea) on wave statistics are discussed. Assuming 2nd order wave theory, the short term and long term probability of occurrence of a freak wave is estimated. The difference between a “freak wave” and a “dangerous wave” is pointed out. Finally, 100 year and 10000 year crest events obtained by analysis procedures used in the offshore industry are discussed in relation to freak waves.


Author(s):  
Pu Xu ◽  
Shunfeng Gong

Abstract Freak wave is an extreme sea state with unexpected and huge wave height, which becomes a potential risk for lay barge and offshore pipeline during deepwater installation. In order to investigate the dynamic responses of deepwater S-lay pipeline induced by freak waves, this study developed a comprehensive numerical model with the particular consideration of the freak wave effect. An enhanced superposition method of combined transient wave trains and random wave trains was presented, and a series of freak wave trains were generated. The induced pipelay vessel motions were simulated by the use of displacement response amplitude operators (RAOs). The pipe–stinger roller interactions in the overbend and the cyclic contacts between the pipeline and seabed soil in the touchdown zone (TDZ) were fully taken into consideration. The developed S-lay model was subsequently utilized to calculate the dynamic responses of the pipelay vessel and offshore pipeline under random waves and freak waves for a comparison. The results illustrated the remarkable influence of freak waves on the systematic behaviors of deepwater S-laying pipeline, which offer a significant theoretical basis for the pipe structure design and pipelay operation safety.


Entropy ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 21 (10) ◽  
pp. 925 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stephen Guth ◽  
Themistoklis P. Sapsis

The ability to characterize and predict extreme events is a vital topic in fields ranging from finance to ocean engineering. Typically, the most-extreme events are also the most-rare, and it is this property that makes data collection and direct simulation challenging. We consider the problem of deriving optimal predictors of extremes directly from data characterizing a complex system, by formulating the problem in the context of binary classification. Specifically, we assume that a training dataset consists of: (i) indicator time series specifying on whether or not an extreme event occurs; and (ii) observables time series, which are employed to formulate efficient predictors. We employ and assess standard binary classification criteria for the selection of optimal predictors, such as total and balanced error and area under the curve, in the context of extreme event prediction. For physical systems for which there is sufficient separation between the extreme and regular events, i.e., extremes are distinguishably larger compared with regular events, we prove the existence of optimal extreme event thresholds that lead to efficient predictors. Moreover, motivated by the special character of extreme events, i.e., the very low rate of occurrence, we formulate a new objective function for the selection of predictors. This objective is constructed from the same principles as receiver operating characteristic curves, and exhibits a geometric connection to the regime separation property. We demonstrate the application of the new selection criterion to the advance prediction of intermittent extreme events in two challenging complex systems: the Majda–McLaughlin–Tabak model, a 1D nonlinear, dispersive wave model, and the 2D Kolmogorov flow model, which exhibits extreme dissipation events.


2006 ◽  
Vol 6 (6) ◽  
pp. 1007-1015 ◽  
Author(s):  
I. I. Didenkulova ◽  
A. V. Slunyaev ◽  
E. N. Pelinovsky ◽  
C. Kharif

Abstract. Information about freak wave events in the ocean reported by mass media and derived from personal observations in 2005 is collected and analysed. Nine cases are selected as true freak wave events from a total number of 27 mentioned. Besides rogue waves in the open sea, the problem of freak wave events on the shore is emphasized. These accidents are related to unexpected wave impact upon the coast and shore constructions or to sudden intensive flooding of the coast. Of the nine events considered reliable here, three events correspond to open-sea cases, while the six others occurred nearshore.


2013 ◽  
Vol 27 (5) ◽  
pp. 659-670 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jin-xuan Li ◽  
Peng-fei Li ◽  
Shu-xue Liu

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 130 ◽  
Author(s):  
K.A. Powell

An extensive laboratory investigation into the behaviour of shingle beaches has been undertaken using a large random wave flume. The study utilised a lightweight material scaled to reproduce the correct permeability of the beach, and the correct threshold and relative magnitude of the onshore/offshore movement. Results are presented describing both the wave reflection characteristics of the beach and the probabilistic distribution of wave run-up crests on the foreshore. Where possible the laboratory results are validated against field data.


2006 ◽  
Vol 36 (7) ◽  
pp. 1471-1483 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nobuhito Mori ◽  
Peter A. E. M. Janssen

Abstract Based on a weakly non-Gaussian theory, the occurrence probability of freak waves is formulated in terms of the number of waves in a time series and the surface elevation kurtosis. Finite kurtosis gives rise to a significant enhancement of freak wave generation in comparison with the linear narrowbanded wave theory. For a fixed number of waves, the estimated amplification ratio of freak wave occurrence due to the deviation from the Gaussian theory is 50%–300%. The results of the theory are compared with laboratory and field data.


2013 ◽  
Vol 10 (1) ◽  
pp. 59-68 ◽  
Author(s):  
Srinivasan Chandrasekaran ◽  
Koshti Yuvraj

Recent observations of the sea state that result in the undesirable events confirm the presence of extreme waves like freak waves, which is capable of causing irreparable damages to offshore installations and (or) create inoperable conditions to the crew on board. Knowledge on the extreme wave environment and the related wave-structure interaction are required for safer design of deep-water offshore structures. In the current study, typical long crested extreme waves namely:  i) New Year wave at offshore Norway; and ii) Freak wave at North Sea are simulated using the combined wave model. Dynamic response of the Tension Leg Platforms (TLP) under these extreme waves is carried out for different wave approach angles. Based on the analytical studies cared out, it is seen that the TLPs are sensitive to the wave directionality when encountered by such extreme waves; ringing type response is developed in TLPs which could result in tether pull out.DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.3329/jname.v10i1.14518


Author(s):  
Hongzhou Chen ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Yuxiang Ma

Nonlinearity of gravity waves in coastal region plays crucial role in the wave evolution and the sediment transport. Parameterization of the nonlinear characteristics of random waves is an efficient and important way to descript the wave process. It is well known that coastal topography has a key effect on the wave transformation. However, the related previous studies have ignored the slope effects. It is the primary motivation of the research. To implement this aim, physical experiments of random waves propagating over three slopes (1/15, 1/30, 1/45) were carried out in a wave flume with 50m long, 3m wide and used with a water depth of 0.52m. About 20 random wave simulations based on JONSWAP spectra with varying wave height and peak frequency were considered. The wavelet based bispectrum is adopted to obtain the nonlinear parameters, bicoherence, biphase, skewness and asymmetry. On each slope bottoms, several empirical relationships between these parameters and the local Ursell number are derived using the least square method. The results indicate that the bicoherence and the asymmetry of waves relate to the slope. However, the slopes have negligible effect on the formulae of the skewness. Then, the empirical formulae on the bicoherence and asymmetry combining with the bottom slope are constructed.


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