Note on a Paper by Liu on the Scattering of Water Waves by a Pair of Semi-Infinite Barriers

1981 ◽  
Vol 48 (3) ◽  
pp. 656-656
Author(s):  
A. D. Rawlins

Recently, a problem, whose solution was well known in exact form, has been analyzed by Liu (Scattering of Water Waves by a Pair of Semi-Infinite Barriers, ASME Journal of Applied Mechanics, Vol. 42, 1975, p. 777), by the method of matched asymptotic expansions. From the known exact solution a simple expression is obtained for the transmission coefficient. The exact expression for the transmission coefficient when expanded for low frequency incident waves differs from Liu’s result, and therefore casts doubt on Liu’s analysis and physical conclusions.

1985 ◽  
Vol 152 ◽  
pp. 315-335 ◽  
Author(s):  
Chiang C. Mei

One of the possible mechanisms of forming offshore sandbars parallel to a coast is the wave-induced mass transport in the boundary layer near the sea bottom. For this mechanism to be effective, sufficient reflection must be present so that the waves are partially standing. The main part of this paper is to explain a theory that strong reflection can be induced by the sandbars themselves, once the so-called Bragg resonance condition is met. For constant mean depth and simple harmonic waves this resonance has been studied by Davies (1982), whose theory, is however, limited to weak reflection and fails at resonance. Comparison of the strong reflection theory with Heathershaw's (1982) experiments is made. Furthermore, if the incident waves are slightly detuned or slowly modulated in time, the scattering process is found to depend critically on whether the modulational frequency lies above or below a threshold frequency. The effects of mean beach slope are also studied. In addition, it is found for periodically modulated wave groups that nonlinear effects can radiate long waves over the bars far beyond the reach of the short waves themselves. Finally it is argued that the breakpoint bar of ordinary size formed by plunging breakers can provide enough reflection to initiate the first few bars, thereby setting the stage for resonant reflection for more bars.


Micromachines ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 9 (11) ◽  
pp. 598 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kwangseok Lee ◽  
Jeong-won Lee ◽  
Kihwan Kim ◽  
Donghyeon Yoo ◽  
Dong Kim ◽  
...  

Water waves are a continuously generated renewable source of energy. However, their random motion and low frequency pose significant challenges for harvesting their energy. Herein, we propose a spherical hybrid triboelectric nanogenerator (SH-TENG) that efficiently harvests the energy of low frequency, random water waves. The SH-TENG converts the kinetic energy of the water wave into solid–solid and solid–liquid triboelectric energy simultaneously using a single electrode. The electrical output of the SH-TENG for six degrees of freedom of motion in water was investigated. Further, in order to demonstrate hybrid energy harvesting from multiple energy sources using a single electrode on the SH-TENG, the charging performance of a capacitor was evaluated. The experimental results indicate that SH-TENGs have great potential for use in self-powered environmental monitoring systems that monitor factors such as water temperature, water wave height, and pollution levels in oceans.


1979 ◽  
Vol 36 (10) ◽  
pp. 1223-1227
Author(s):  
D. D. Lemon ◽  
P. H. LeBlond ◽  
T. R. Osborn

Seiche motions observed in San Juan Harbour with a bottom-mounted pressure gauge have been Fourier-analyzed and interpreted in terms of a theoretical model of oscillations in a rectangular basin with an exponential depth profile. Two of the observed periods (at 14.6 and 38.5 min) are identified with resonances of the basin; two other significant low frequency peaks (at 21 and 55 min) do not coincide with resonant periods of the basin and must be due to strong external forcing. Higher frequency fluctuations (20–160 s) are attributed to swell and to its subharmonic interactions with edge waves. Key words: water waves, seiches, mathematical model, Juan de Fuca Strait, British Columbia


Author(s):  
Chao An ◽  
Chen Cai ◽  
Lei Zhou ◽  
Ting Yang

Abstract Horizontal records of ocean-bottom seismographs are usually noisy at low frequencies (< 0.1 Hz). The noise source is believed to be associated with ocean-bottom currents that may tilt the instrument. Currently horizontal records are mainly used to remove the coherent noise in vertical records, and there has been little literature that quantitatively discusses the mechanism and characteristics of low-frequency horizontal noise. In this article, we analyze in situ ocean-bottom measurements by rotating the data horizontally and evaluating the coherency between different channels. Results suggest that the horizontal noise consists of two components, random noise and principle noise whose direction barely changes in time. The amplitude and the direction of the latter are possibly related to the intensity and direction of ocean-bottom currents. Rotating the horizontal records to the direction of the principle noise can largely suppress the principle noise in the orthogonal horizontal channel. In addition, the horizontal noise is incoherent with pressure, indicating that the noise source is not ocean surface water waves (infragravity waves). At some stations in shallow waters (<300 m), horizontal noise around 0.07 Hz is found to be linearly proportional to the temporal derivative of pressure, which is explained by forces of added mass due to infragravity waves.


2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (1) ◽  
pp. 9 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kostas Belibassakis ◽  
Julien Touboul ◽  
Elodie Laffitte ◽  
Vincent Rey

Extended mild-slope models (MMSs) are examined for predicting the characteristics of normally incident waves propagating over sinusoidal bottom topography in the presence of opposing shearing currents. It is shown that MMSs are able to provide quite good predictions in the case of Bragg scattering of waves over rippled bathymetry without a current, but fail to provide good predictions concerning the resonant frequency in the additional presence of a current. In order to resolve the above mismatch, a two-equation mild-slope system (CMS2) is derived from a variational principle based on the representation of the wave potential expressed as a superposition of the forward and backward components. The latter system is compared against experimentally measured data collected in a wave flume and is shown to provide more accurate predictions concerning both the resonant frequency and the amplitude of the reflection coefficient. Future work will be devoted to the examination of the derived model for a more general wave system over realistic seabed topography.


1971 ◽  
Vol 49 (1) ◽  
pp. 65-74 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. O. Tuck

A method of solution is proposed for flows through small apertures in otherwise impermeable barriers. This method, which is an application of the method of matched asymptotic expansions, is used to solve a specific water-wave problem, yielding an approximate formula for the transmission coefficient.


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