scholarly journals Evolution of statistically inhomogeneous degenerate water wave quartets

Author(s):  
R. Stuhlmeier ◽  
M. Stiassnie

A discretized equation for the evolution of random surface wave fields on deep water is derived from Zakharov's equation, allowing for a general treatment of the stability and long-time behaviour of broad-banded sea states. It is investigated for the simple case of degenerate four-wave interaction, and the instability of statistically homogeneous states to small inhomogeneous disturbances is demonstrated. Furthermore, the long-time evolution is studied for several cases and shown to lead to a complex spatio-temporal energy distribution. The possible impact of this evolution on the statistics of freak wave occurrence is explored. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.

Author(s):  
Didier Clamond

Steady two-dimensional surface capillary–gravity waves in irrotational motion are considered on constant depth. By exploiting the holomorphic properties in the physical plane and introducing some transformations of the boundary conditions at the free surface, new exact relations and equations for the free surface only are derived. In particular, a physical plane counterpart of the Babenko equation is obtained. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


Author(s):  
Adrian Constantin

This introduction to the issue provides a review of some recent developments in the study of water waves. The content and contributions of the papers that make up this Theme Issue are also discussed.


Author(s):  
Delia Ionescu-Kruse

This paper is a survey of the short-wavelength stability method for rotating flows. Additional complications such as stratification in the flow or the presence of non-conservative body forces are considered too. This method is applied to the specific study of some exact geophysical flows. For Gerstner-like geophysical flows one can identify perturbations in certain directions as a source of instabilities with an exponentially growing amplitude, the growth rate of the instabilities depending on the steepness of the travelling wave profile. On the other hand, for certain physically realistic velocity profiles, steady flows moving only in the azimuthal direction, with no variation in this direction, are locally stable to the short-wavelength perturbations. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


1983 ◽  
Vol 133 ◽  
pp. 113-132 ◽  
Author(s):  
Peter A. E. M. Janssen

In this paper we investigate nonlinear interactions of narrowband, Gaussian-random, inhomogeneous wavetrains. Alber studied the stability of a homogeneous wave spectrum as a function of the width σ of the spectrum. For vanishing bandwidth the deterministic results of Benjamin & Feir on the instability of a uniform wavetrain were rediscovered whereas a homogeneous wave spectrum was found to be stable if the bandwidth is sufficiently large. Clearly, a threshold for instability is present, and in this paper we intend to study the long-time behaviour of a slightly unstable modulation by means of a multiple-timescale technique. Two interesting cases are found. For small but finite bandwidth – the amplitude of the unstable modulation shows initially an overshoot, followed by an oscillation around the time-asymptotic value of the amplitude. This oscillation damps owing to phase mixing except for vanishing bandwidth because then the well-known Fermi–Pasta–Ulam recurrence is found. For large bandwidth, however, no overshoot is found since the damping is overwhelming. In both cases the instability is quenched because of a broadening of the spectrum.


Author(s):  
Konstantinos Kalimeris

We present recent analytical and numerical results for two-dimensional periodic travelling water waves with constant vorticity. The analytical approach is based on novel asymptotic expansions. We obtain numerical results in two different ways: the first is based on the solution of a constrained optimization problem, and the second is realized as a numerical continuation algorithm. Both methods are applied on some examples of non-constant vorticity. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


2002 ◽  
Vol 44 (1) ◽  
pp. 95-102 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. R. Marchant

AbstractSolitary wave interaction is examined using an extended Benjamin-Bona-Mahony (eBBM) equation. This equation includes higher-order nonlinear and dispersive effects and is is asymptotically equivalent to the extended Korteweg-de Vries (eKdV) equation. The eBBM formulation is preferable to the eKdV equation for the numerical modelling of solitary wave collisions, due to the stability of its finite-difference scheme. In particular, it allows the interaction of steep waves to be modelled, which due to numerical instability, is not possible using the eKdV equation.Numerical simulations of a number of solitary wave collisions of varying nonlinearity are performed for two special cases corresponding to surface water waves. The mass and energy of the dispersive wavetrain generated by the inelastic collision is tabulated and used to show that the change in solitary wave amplitude after interaction is of O(α4), verifying previously obtained theoretical predictions.


Author(s):  
Anna Geyer ◽  
Ronald Quirchmayr

We present derivations of shallow water model equations of Korteweg–de Vries and Boussinesq type for equatorial tsunami waves in the f -plane approximation and discuss their applicability. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


In 1967, T. Brooke Benjamin showed that periodic wave-trains on the surface of water could be unstable. If the undisturbed depth is h , and k is the wavenumber of the fundamental, then the Stokes wave is unstable if kh ≥ σ 0 , where σ 0 ≈ 1.363. The instability is provided by the growth of waves with a wavenumber close to k . This result is associated with an almost resonant quartet wave interaction and can be obtained by examining the cubic nonlinearity in the nonlinear Schrodinger equation for the modulation of harmonic water waves: this term vanishes at kh = cr0. In this paper the multiple-scales technique is adapted in order to derive the appropriate modulation equation for the amplitude of the fundamental when kh is near to σ 0 . The resulting equation takes the form i A T - a 1 A ζζ - a 2 A | A | 2 + a 3 A | A | 4 + i( a 4 | A | 2 A ζ - a 5 A (| A | 2 ) ζ ) - a 6 Aψ T = 0 where ψ ζ = | A | 2 , and the a i are real numbers. [Coefficients a 3 - a 6 are given on kh ≈ 1.363 only.] This equation is uniformly valid in that it reduces to the classical non-linear Schrödinger equation in the appropriate limit and is correct when a 2 = 0, i.e. at kh = σ 0 . The equation is used to examine the stability of the Stokes wave and the new inequality for stability is derived: this now depends on the wave amplitude. If the wave is unstable then it is expected that soli to ns will be produced: the simplest form of soliton is therefore examined by constructing the corresponding ordinary differential equation. Some comments are made concerning the phase-plane of this equation, but more analytical details are extracted by treating the new terms as perturbations of the classical Schrodinger soliton. It is shown that the soliton is both flatter (symmetrically) and skewed forward, although the skewing eventually gives way to an oscillation above the mean level.


2021 ◽  
Vol 927 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mateusz Kluczek ◽  
David Andrade ◽  
Michael Stiassnie

The problem of unidirectional shoaling of a water-wave field with a narrow energy spectrum is treated by using a new Alber equation. The stability of the linear stationary solution to small non-stationary disturbances is analysed; and numerical solutions for its subsequent long-distance evolution are presented. The results quantify the physics which causes the gradual decay in the probability of freak-wave occurrence, when moving from deep to shallow coastal waters.


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