Sea waves and mass transport on a sloping beach

Author(s):  
Paolo Blondeaux ◽  
Maurizio Brocchini ◽  
Giovanna Vittori
2012 ◽  
Vol 701 ◽  
pp. 460-472 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pietro Scandura ◽  
Enrico Foti ◽  
Carla Faraci

AbstractThis paper deals with the mass transport induced by sea waves propagating over a sloping beach and fully reflected from a wall. It is shown that for moderate slopes the classical recirculation cell structure holds for small Reynolds numbers only. When the Reynolds number is large, the cells interact among themselves giving rise to the merging of the negative cells and the confinement of the positive ones near the bottom. Under such circumstances the fluid moves onshore near the bottom and offshore near the free surface. The seaward decrease of the vorticity produced at the bottom appears to be the reason for the merging phenomenon.


1996 ◽  
Vol 314 ◽  
pp. 247-265 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. Vittori ◽  
P. Blondeaux

Mass transport under a progressive sea wave propagating over a rippled bed is investigated. Wave amplitudes a* of the same order of magnitude as that of the boundary layer thickness δ* and of the ripple wavelength l* are considered. All the above quantities are assumed to be much smaller than the wavelength L* of the sea wave and much larger than the amplitude 2ε* of the ripples. The analysis is carried out up to the second order in the wave slope a*/L* and in the parameter ε*/δ* which is a measure of ripple steepness. Because of these assumptions, the slow damping of wave amplitude in the direction of wave propagation is taken into account. Attention is focused on the bottom boundary layer where an order (ε*/δ*)2 correction of the steady velocity components described by Longuet-Higgins (1953) is found. This correction persists at the outer edge of the bottom boundary layer and affects the solution in the entire water column.


1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 142
Author(s):  
Wi-Gwang Pae ◽  
Yuichi Iwagaki

In the present study, two-dimensional laboratory experiments were performed to investigate the sediment transport due to waves on a fixed sloping beach. Polystyrene particles and glass balls were used as tracers to determine the mass transport velocity near the bottom and the net transport velocity of sediment moving on an impermeable slope. Relationships between the mass transport velocity of water and the net sediment transport velocity are investigated experimentally. The mechanism of two-dimensional beach deformation from an initial uniform slope toward an equilibrium profile due to bed-load movement is discussed on the basis of spatial distributions of the net sediment transport velocity. In addition, some results of experiments using a movable bed are presented to confirm the validity of a beach deformation model derived from the discussion of the tracer experiments.


1979 ◽  
Vol 44 ◽  
pp. 349-355
Author(s):  
R.W. Milkey

The focus of discussion in Working Group 3 was on the Thermodynamic Properties as determined spectroscopically, including the observational techniques and the theoretical modeling of physical processes responsible for the emission spectrum. Recent advances in observational techniques and theoretical concepts make this discussion particularly timely. It is wise to remember that the determination of thermodynamic parameters is not an end in itself and that these are interesting chiefly for what they can tell us about the energetics and mass transport in prominences.


1984 ◽  
Vol 45 (C2) ◽  
pp. C2-285-C2-288
Author(s):  
I. B. Borovskii ◽  
D. D. Gorodskii ◽  
I. M. Sharafeev
Keyword(s):  

2003 ◽  
Vol 8 (1) ◽  
pp. 3-18 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. Baronas ◽  
F. Ivanauskas ◽  
J. Kulys

A mathematical model of amperometric biosensors has been developed to simulate the biosensor response in stirred as well as non stirred solution. The model involves three regions: the enzyme layer where enzyme reaction as well as mass transport by diffusion takes place, a diffusion limiting region where only the diffusion takes place, and a convective region, where the analyte concentration is maintained constant. Using computer simulation the influence of the thickness of the enzyme layer as well the diffusion one on the biosensor response was investigated. The computer simulation was carried out using the finite difference technique.


1996 ◽  
Vol 451 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. P. Moffat

ABSTRACTA variety of Cu/(Ni, Co) multilayers have been grown on Cu single crystals by pulse plating from an alloy electroplating bath. Copper is deposited under mass transport control while the iron group metal is deposited under interfacial charge transfer control. The structural evolution of these films is influenced by the morphological instability of the mass transport limited copper deposition reaction and the development of growth twins during iron-group metal deposition. Specular films have been obtained for growth on Cu(100) while rough, defective films were typically obtained for growth on Cu(111) and Cu(110).


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