Feedback Relationship in Wave Erosion of Laboratory Rocky Coast

1976 ◽  
Vol 84 (4) ◽  
pp. 427-437 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tsuguo Sunamura
Keyword(s):  
2018 ◽  
Vol 36 (2) ◽  
pp. 1008
Author(s):  
Γ. Λειβαδίτης ◽  
Α. Αλεξούλη-Λειβαδίτη

The morphology of the coasts of the island of Lesvos is controlled mainly by the erosivity of the volcanic rocks that form >51.2% of the coasts of the island. Thus, the NE, Ν, W and the biggest part of the S coasts consist exclusively of volcanic rocks, with the E coast and the remaining part of the S coast to be formed by metamorphic rocks i.e. schists, phyllites and matbles, being the 31.7% of the coast. Neogene and alluvial formations occupy the coast of the Geras and Kalloni Gulfs and secondarily some other bays representing an area of 15.7%, with the remaining 1.4% of the coast to be consisted of peridotites and serpentinites. The coasts formed by Neogene and Quaternary deposits are rather gentle incorporating small bays where beaches have been formed. Furthermore, in the case of Geras and Kalloni Gulfs lagoons and swamps (permanent and/or seasonal) have been formed due to the low gradients of the coastal zone, the increased sediment fluxes from torrents and the low-energy wave and current regime; these wetlands are of great ecological importance. Beach zone consists of sand and pebbles of varying size, whilst the backshore zone is covered by grass and is traversed by scattered creeps. Beach rocks have been identified below or under the sea level, which are present in coasts of carbonate rocks but they are absent from those of volcanic rocks. The study of beach rocks showed a discontinuous uplifting of the sea level which reaches up to 3m during the last 4000-4500 years. Sloping coasts of various angles (from a few degrees up to 40-60 degrees) with a rather smooth relief deep into the sea; their slope remains the same above and under the sea level. Lithologically, these coasts consist mainly of volcanic rocks. This type of coast does not belong to the category of actively retreating coasts. Cliffs constitute another category of coasts. They vary from cliffs of few meters height (2 - 3 m) to cliffs of bigger size (falaise), being the product of marine erosion. These coasts belong to the category of actively retreating coasts. Along their coastline intensive erosion is observed; whilst in some places blocks of the retreating rocky coast remain offshore. In other places narrow shores, consisting of sand and pebbles, are formed on the foot of the cliff. The most steep coasts are formed primarily in acid volcanic rocks (pyroclastic, ryolitic) and secondarily in other type of volcanic rocks. In the case of intensively broken cracked loose rocky formations, rockfalls are also occurred frequently. In the case of formations that undergone intensive tectonic activity, weathering and eronional processes are amplified resulting to the formation of a thick weathered horizon, which with the underlain broken rock-strata often comes into a fragile equilibrium that results to rockfalls. Finally, along both the gently sloping coasts and the cliffed coasts are formed pocket beaches. The coasts of Lesvos are characterized genetically according to the classification system of Shepard (1963), in primary and secondary coasts. I) Primary coasts. 1) Alluvial plain coasts 2) Wind deposition coasts. 3) a) Dunes. Sand flats form in front of dunes. 4) Landslides coasts. 5) Volcanic coasts. 6) Fault coasts. II) Secondary coasts shaped mainly by marine agencies of erosion or deposition. 1 ) Coasts that were created by the erosion of waves. We distinguish: a) Wave straitened cliffs. They are distinguished from the fault coasts because they bordered by gently inclined sea floor. 2) Made irregular by wave erosion. 3 Beaches. Enough widespread type of coasts covered by sand, gravel etc. 4 Salt Marshes and marsh grass coasts. 5 Swamps and Lagoons.


Author(s):  
Е. Бадюкова ◽  
E. Badyukova ◽  
Леонид Жиндарев ◽  
Leonid Zhindarev ◽  
Светлана Лукьянова ◽  
...  

Modern accumulative and deflation forms of a coastal eolian relief on the sea coast of Kuronian and Vistula Spits are considered. It is established that on coastal barriers there are at the same time processes of accretion and degradation of a dune ridge and leaned against it foredune. Alternation of stable and erosive sites of a dune ridge is revealed. The last has destruction signs as with sea (wave erosion), and from the land side where the whirls of a wind stream creating numerous deflation basins in dune ridge have great value.


1999 ◽  
Vol 38 (4) ◽  
pp. 423-444 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mark Stoyle

In May 1648 a group of Cornishmen who had rebelled against Parliament in the name of Charles I met with comprehensive defeat at “the Gear,” near Helford, and were then pursued back across the Lizard peninsula to the seacoast beyond. Surrender seemed inevitable, yet a number of the fugitives refused to submit. Instead they “joyned hand-in-hand” and hurled themselves bodily into the water: “a desperate expedient on that rocky coast,” as one later writer remarked. What can have driven them to such despair? No convincing answer can be given by looking at the events of 1648 alone. The rebels' despairing plunge can be understood only if it is seen as the final act in a long-running drama, a story of repeated popular protest in West Cornwall that spanned over 150 years. It is a story that has gone largely unrecognized by previous historians, most of whom have portrayed the Cornish revolts of 1497, 1548, 1549, 1642, and 1648 as isolated events rather than as part of a continuum. Yet it is a story that deserves to be told, not only because it provides a dramatic new explanation for many of the most important rebellions of the Tudor and Stuart periods, but also because it serves as an enduring monument to a forgotten people and their struggle to preserve a separate identity for themselves in the face of overwhelming odds.A fierce sense of distinctiveness has always characterized the inhabitants of Cornwall.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Luca C Malatesta ◽  
Noah J. Finnegan ◽  
Kimberly Huppert ◽  
Emily Carreño

<p>Marine terraces are a cornerstone for the study of paleo sea level and crustal deformation. Commonly, individual erosive marine terraces are attributed to unique sea level high-stands. This stems from early reasoning that marine platforms could only be significantly widened under moderate rates of sea level rise as at the beginning of an interglacial and preserved onshore by subsequent sea level fall. However, if marine terraces are only created during brief windows at the start of interglacials, this implies that terraces are unchanged over the vast majority of their evolution, despite an often complex submergence history during which waves are constantly acting on the coastline, regardless of the sea level stand.<span> </span></p><p>Here, we question the basic assumption that individual marine terraces are uniquely linked to distinct sea level high stands and highlight how a single marine terrace can be created By reoccupation of the same uplifting platform by successive sea level stands. We then identify the biases that such polygenetic terraces can introduce into relative sea level reconstructions and inferences of rock uplift rates from marine terrace chronostratigraphy.</p><p>Over time, a terrace’s cumulative exposure to wave erosion depends on the local rock uplift rate. Faster rock uplift rates lead to less frequent (fewer reoccupations) or even single episodes of wave erosion of an uplifting terrace and the generation and preservation of numerous terraces. Whereas slower rock uplift rates lead to repeated erosion of a smaller number of polygenetic terraces. The frequency and duration of terrace exposure to wave erosion at sea level depend strongly on rock uplift rate.</p><p>Certain rock uplift rates may therefore promote the generation and preservation of particular terraces (e.g. those eroded during recent interglacials). For example, under a rock uplift rate of ca. 1.2 mm/yr, Marine Isotope Stage (MIS) 5e (ca. 120 ka) would resubmerge a terrace eroded ca. 50 kyr earlier for tens of kyr during MIS 6d–e stages (ca. 190–170 ka) and expose it to further wave erosion at sea level. This reoccupation could accordingly promote the formation of a particularly wide or well planed terrace associated with MIS 5e with a greater chance of being preserved and identified. This effect is potentially illustrated by a global compilation of rock uplift rates derived from MIS 5e terraces. It shows an unusual abundance of marine terraces documenting uplift rates between 0.8 and 1.2 mm/yr, supporting the hypothesis that these uplift rates promote exposure of the same terrace to wave erosion during multiple sea level stands.</p><p>Hence, the elevations and widths of terraces eroded during specific sea level stands vary widely from site-to-site and depend on local rock uplift rate. Terraces do not necessarily correspond to an elevation close to that of the latest sea level high-stand but may reflect the elevation of an older, longer-lived, occupation. This leads to potential misidentification of terraces if each terrace in a sequence is assumed to form uniquely at successive interglacial high stands and to reflect their elevations.</p>


Author(s):  
Salvatore Brullo ◽  
Cristian Brullo ◽  
Salvatore Cambria ◽  
Gianpietro Giusso del Galdo
Keyword(s):  

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ahmad Cahyadi ◽  
Ardila Yananto ◽  
Filialdi Nur Hidayat

Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk (1) menganalisis tipologi pesisir di Kawasan Karst Kabupaten Wonogiri, Provinsi Jawa Tengah, (2) Menganalisis potensi yang terdapat di lokasi kajian, dan (3) menganalisis permasalahan yang ada di lokasi kajian. Penentuan tipologi pesisir didasarkan pada klasifikasi Shepard (1972) yang termuat dalam pedoman survei cepat terintegrasi yang disusun oleh Fakultas Geografi UGM dan BAKOSURTANAL (sekarang BIG). Analisis potensi dan permasalahan dilakukan dengan melakukan survei lapangan, wawancara, dan kajian pustaka. Hasil kajian menunjukkan bahwa tipologi pesisir di Kabupaten Wonogiri terdiri dari tiga jenis tipologi pesisir, yaitu; wave erosion coast, marine deposition coast dan structurally shaped coast; potensi pesisir Kabupaten Wonogiri terdiri dari potensi pariwisata, pertanian, peternakan dan perikanan; dan permasalahan yang ada di pesisir Kabupaten Wonogiri terdiri dari sarana dan prasarana yang terbatas, aksesibilitas yang kurang baik, bencana tsunami, rip current dan keterbatasan sumberdaya air.


1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 151
Author(s):  
D.E. Bosman ◽  
D.J.P. Scholtz

A large number of man-made tidal swimming pools (two examples are shown in Figure 1) exist along the South African coast. They are usually situated on rocky outcrops in the close vicinity of popular sandy bathing beaches to provide protected bathing conditions in these areas mainly for children and elderly people. Some tidal pools, especially along rocky coast, provide the only safe bathing facilities. Besides affording protection against waves and surfzone currents the pools provide protection from sharks. A large number of tidal pools were built during the early 1950s along the Natal South Coast after the occurrence of a relatively large number of shark attacks on bathers on that coast. The semi-diurnal tide with a range of about 1,5 m along the South African coast makes it possible for pools to be built such that water replenishment can occur during every high-water (approximately every 12 hours) during both neap and spring tide periods. Presently, there exists a great need for more tidal pools as part of the demand for more recreational facilities along the South African coast. However, no information on design criteria could be found in the literature.


2021 ◽  
Vol 904 (1) ◽  
pp. 012040
Author(s):  
Ali Al Dousari ◽  
Modi Ahmed ◽  
Noor Al Dousari ◽  
Abeer Al Saleh ◽  
Teena William

Abstract Kuwait Institute for Scientific Research plans to set up some research facilities within the Gudhi area, which lies north of the coastal spill of Kuwait Bay. The area is about 653,000 m2, the region highly sensitive from an environmental perspective and ecological. It is a coastal strip dominated by rich fauna and flora mainly Nitraria retusa forming large nabkhas that attract many wildlife scientists. The presence of nabkhas is a good indicator of fluvial and aeolian activities in the area. The establishment of infrastructures within this area is anticipated to cause significant damage to wildlife. Additionally, any future infrastructures in the area is under the following threats: 1-S and encroachment as it is located within an active wind corridor. 2-Fluvial action during flood seasons as it is located at downstream of Jal Al-Zur watershed. 3-The wave erosion along 1200m coastal margin. As an important role of KISR is the attention and care regarding the environmental aspects associated with project actions, therefore, it is proposed that a proper scientific research project should be implemented prior to the establishment of any infrastructure development. The main objective of this study is to assess and control hazards in the Gudhi area by implementation of native plants and mangroves landscape design. Assessment and monitoring of fauna and flora have provided initial information on existing vegetation, soil properties that are considered important to quantify ecological conditions prior to actual vegetation plantation establishment or restoration effort. Nitraria and Lycium populations were found the most proper in controlling hazards of mobile sand and flush floods for the study area.


1993 ◽  
Vol 71 (2) ◽  
pp. 401-406 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Brinckmann-Voss ◽  
D. M. Lickey ◽  
C. E. Mills

A new species of colonial athecate hydroid, Rhysia fletcheri, is described from Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada, and from Friday Harbor, Washington, U.S.A. Its relationship to Rhysia autumnalis Brinckmann from the Mediterranean and Rhysia halecii (Hickson and Gravely) from the Antarctic and Japan is discussed. Rhysia fletcheri differs from Rhysia autumnalis and Rhysia halecii in the gastrozooid having distinctive cnidocyst clusters on its hypostome and few, thick tentacles. Most of its female gonozooids have no tentacles. Colonies of R. fletcheri are without dactylozooids. The majority of R. fletcheri colonies are found growing on large barnacles or among the hydrorhiza of large thecate hydrozoans. Rhysia fletcheri occurs in relatively sheltered waters of the San Juan Islands and on the exposed rocky coast of southern Vancouver Island.


1958 ◽  
Vol 48 (1) ◽  
pp. 65-76
Author(s):  
A. E. M. Geddes

Abstract As observations of microseisms at Aberdeen appeared to indicate that microseisms may arise from a cause or causes other than from standing waves set up by reflection from a steep rocky coast or by a mixture of waves in a fast-moving storm, a survey of Aberdeen records for 1955 has been carried out and a comparison made with the meteorological conditions prevailing at the time. A noticeable feature on the weather charts was the frequent occurrence of pressure distributions with two centres, while the occasions on which fast-moving storms occurred, or reflection from rocky coasts, were rare. Consequently there seemed to be grounds for supposing that the standing waves arose from the interference of two sets of wave systems generated by double low-pressure centres. Further, single low centres off either the Norwegian coast or that of America produced very little effect at Aberdeen. The survey suggests that the principal regions where such microseisms were produced appeared to be in the Atlantic north of 50° N and off the rocky coast of northwest Scotland. From a comparison of the displacements on the E-W and N-S records there is some support for the hypothesis that microseisms are due to a mixture of Rayleigh waves and Love waves.


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