Weakly nonlinear broadband and multi-directional surface waves on an arbitrary depth: A framework, Stokes drift, and particle trajectories

2021 ◽  
Vol 33 (7) ◽  
pp. 076609
Author(s):  
Yan Li ◽  
Xin Li
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Particle Trajectories ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear

scholarly journals Mutual Interaction between Surface Waves and Langmuir Circulations Observed in Wave-Resolving Numerical Simulations

2020 ◽  
Vol 50 (8) ◽  
pp. 2323-2339
Author(s):  
Yasushi Fujiwara ◽  
Yutaka Yoshikawa
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Friction Velocity ◽  
Phase Speed ◽  
Mutual Interaction ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Horizontal Shear ◽  
Budget Analysis ◽  
Vorticity Budget ◽  
Langmuir Circulations ◽  
The Waves

AbstractWave-resolving simulations of monochromatic surface waves and Langmuir circulations (LCs) under an idealized condition are performed to investigate the dynamics of wave–current mutual interaction. When the Froude number (the ratio of the friction velocity of wind stress imposed at the surface and wave phase speed) is large, waves become refracted by the downwind jet associated with LCs and become amplitude modulated in the crosswind direction. In such cases, the simulations using the Craik–Leibovich (CL) equation with a prescribed horizontally uniform Stokes drift profile are found to underestimate the intensity of LCs. Vorticity budget analysis reveals that horizontal shear of Stokes drift induced by the wave modulation tilts the wind-driven vorticity to the downwind direction, intensifying the LCs that caused the waves to be modulated. Such an effect is not reproduced in the CL equation unless the Stokes drift of the waves modulated by LCs is prescribed. This intensification mechanism is similar to the CL1 mechanism in that the horizontal shear of the Stokes drift plays a key role, but it is more likely to occur because the shear in this interaction is automatically generated by the LCs whereas the shear in the CL1 mechanism is retained only when a particular phase relation between two crossing waves is kept locked for many periods.

scholarly journals Streaming by leaky surface acoustic waves

2010 ◽  
Vol 467 (2130) ◽  
pp. 1779-1800 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Vanneste ◽  
O. Bühler
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Acoustic Waves ◽  
Surface Acoustic Waves ◽  
Acoustic Streaming ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
Matched Asymptotics ◽  
Flow Generation ◽  
Solid Liquid Interface ◽  
Solid Liquid

Acoustic streaming, the generation of mean flow by dissipating acoustic waves, provides a promising method for flow pumping in microfluidic devices. In recent years, several groups have been experimenting with acoustic streaming induced by leaky surface waves: (Rayleigh) surface waves excited in a piezoelectric solid interact with a small volume of fluid where they generate acoustic waves and, as result of the viscous dissipation of these waves, a mean flow. We discuss the computation of the corresponding Lagrangian mean flow, which controls the trajectories of fluid particles and hence the mixing properties of the flows generated by this method. The problem is formulated using the averaged vorticity equation which extracts the dominant balance between wave dissipation and mean-flow dissipation. Particular attention is paid to the thin boundary layer that forms at the solid/liquid interface, where the flow is best computed using matched asymptotics. This leads to an explicit expression for a slip velocity, which includes the effect of the oscillations of the boundary. The Lagrangian mean flow is naturally separated into three contributions: an interior-driven Eulerian mean flow, a boundary-driven Eulerian mean flow and the Stokes drift. A scale analysis indicates that the latter two contributions can be neglected in devices much larger than the acoustic wavelength but need to be taken into account in smaller devices. A simple two-dimensional model of mean flow generation by surface acoustic waves is discussed as an illustration.

scholarly journals Nonlinear long waves over a muddy beach

2013 ◽  
Vol 718 ◽  
pp. 371-397 ◽  
Author(s):  
Erell-Isis Garnier ◽  
Zhenhua Huang ◽  
Chiang C. Mei
Keyword(s):  
Boundary Layer ◽  
Thin Layer ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Nonlinear Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Fluid Mud ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear ◽  
Sea Bottom ◽  
Oscillatory Boundary Layer

AbstractWe analyse theoretically the interaction between water waves and a thin layer of fluid mud on a sloping seabed. Under the assumption of long waves in shallow water, weakly nonlinear and dispersive effects in water are considered. The fluid mud is modelled as a thin layer of viscoelastic continuum. Using the constitutive coefficients of mud samples from two field sites, we examine the interaction of nonlinear waves and the mud motion. The effects of attenuation on harmonic evolution of surface waves are compared for two types of mud with distinct rheological properties. In general mud dissipation is found to damp out surface waves before they reach the shore, as is known in past observations. Similar to the Eulerian current in an oscillatory boundary layer in a Newtonian fluid, a mean displacement in mud is predicted which may lead to local rise of the sea bottom.

Observed Variability of Ocean Wave Stokes Drift, and the Eulerian Response to Passing Groups

2006 ◽  
Vol 36 (7) ◽  
pp. 1381-1402 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jerome A. Smith
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Current Theory ◽  
Surface Flow ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Lagrangian Surface ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Momentum Fluxes ◽  
Waves And Currents

Abstract Waves and currents interact via exchanges of mass and momentum. The mass and momentum fluxes associated with surface waves are closely linked to their Stokes drift. Both the variability of the Stokes drift and the corresponding response of the underlying flow are important in a wide range of contexts. Three methods are developed and implemented to evaluate Stokes drift from a recently gathered oceanic dataset, involving surface velocities measured continually over an area 1.5 km in radius by 45°. The estimated Stokes drift varies significantly, in line with the occurrence of compact wave groups, resulting in highly intermittent maxima. One method also provides currents at a fixed level (Eulerian velocities). It is found that Eulerian counterflows occur that completely cancel the Stokes drift variations at the surface. Thus, the estimated Lagrangian surface flow has no discernable mean response to wave group passage. This response is larger than anticipated and is hard to reconcile with current theory.

On reduced equations in the Hamiltonian theory of weakly nonlinear surface waves

1994 ◽  
Vol 272 ◽  
pp. 1-20 ◽  
Author(s):  
Vladimir P. Krasitskii
Keyword(s):  
Power Series ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Hamiltonian Structure ◽  
Classical Method ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear ◽  
Integral Power ◽  
Reduced Equations ◽  
Nonlinear Surface Waves ◽  
Nonlinear Surface

Many studies of weakly nonlinear surface waves are based on so-called reduced integrodifferential equations. One of these is the widely used Zakharov four-wave equation for purely gravity waves. But the reduced equations now in use are not Hamiltonian despite the Hamiltonian structure of exact water wave equations. This is entirely due to shortcomings of their derivation. The classical method of canonical transformations, generalized to the continuous case, leads automatically to reduced equations with Hamiltonian structure. In this paper, attention is primarily paid to the Hamiltonian reduced equation describing the combined effects of four- and five-wave weakly nonlinear interactions of purely gravity waves. In this equation, for brevity called five-wave, the non-resonant quadratic, cubic and fourth-order nonlinear terms are eliminated by suitable canonical transformation. The kernels of this equation and the coefficients of the transformation are expressed in explicit form in terms of expansion coefficients of the gravity-wave Hamiltonian in integral-power series in normal variables. For capillary–gravity waves on a fluid of finite depth, expansion of the Hamiltonian in integral-power series in a normal variable with accuracy up to the fifth-order terms is also given.

scholarly journals The Contribution of High-Frequency Wind-Generated Surface Waves to the Stokes Drift

2020 ◽  
Vol 50 (12) ◽  
pp. 3455-3465
Author(s):  
Luc Lenain ◽  
Nick Pizzo
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Ocean Dynamics ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Upper Ocean ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Instrument Measurement ◽  
Wave Models ◽  
Surface Wave Field

AbstractThe effects of nonbreaking surface waves on upper-ocean dynamics enter the wave-averaged primitive equations through the Stokes drift. Through the resulting upper-ocean dynamics, Stokes drift is a catalyst for the fluxes of heat and trace gases between the atmosphere and ocean. However, estimates of the Stokes drift rely crucially on properly resolving the wave spectrum. In this paper, using state-of-the-art spatial measurements (in situ and airborne remote sensing) from a number of different field campaigns, with environmental conditions ranging from 2 to 13 m s−1 wind speed and significant wave height of up to 4 m, we characterize the properties of the surface wave field across the equilibrium and saturation ranges and provide a simple parameterization of the transition between the two regimes that can easily be implemented in numerical wave models. We quantify the error associated with instrument measurement limitations, or incomplete numerical parameterizations, and propose forms for the continuation of these spectra to properly estimate the Stokes drift. Depending on the instrument and the sea state, predictions of surface Stokes drift may be underestimated by more than 50%.

scholarly journals An improved Lagrangian model for the time evolution of nonlinear surface waves

2019 ◽  
Vol 876 ◽  
pp. 527-552 ◽  
Author(s):  
Charles-Antoine Guérin ◽  
Nicolas Desmars ◽  
Stéphan T. Grilli ◽  
Guillaume Ducrozet ◽  
Yves Perignon ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Time Evolution ◽  
Forecast Accuracy ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Lagrangian Model ◽  
Simple Method ◽  
Lagrangian Models ◽  
Wave Forecast

Accurate real-time simulations and forecasting of phase-revolved ocean surface waves require nonlinear effects, both geometrical and kinematic, to be accurately represented. For this purpose, wave models based on a Lagrangian steepness expansion have proved particularly efficient, as compared to those based on Eulerian expansions, as they feature higher-order nonlinearities at a reduced numerical cost. However, while they can accurately model the instantaneous nonlinear wave shape, Lagrangian models developed to date cannot accurately predict the time evolution of even simple periodic waves. Here, we propose a novel and simple method to perform a Lagrangian expansion of surface waves to second order in wave steepness, based on the dynamical system relating particle locations and the Eulerian velocity field. We show that a simple redefinition of reference particles allows us to correct the time evolution of surface waves, through a modified nonlinear dispersion relationship. The resulting expressions of free surface particle locations can then be made numerically efficient by only retaining the most significant contributions to second-order terms, i.e. Stokes drift and mean vertical level. This results in a hybrid model, referred to as the ‘improved choppy wave model’ (ICWM) (with respect to Nouguier et al.’s J. Geophys. Res., vol. 114, 2009, p. C09012), whose performance is numerically assessed for long-crested waves, both periodic and irregular. To do so, ICWM results are compared to those of models based on a high-order spectral method and classical second-order Lagrangian expansions. For irregular waves, two generic types of narrow- and broad-banded wave spectra are considered, for which ICWM is shown to significantly improve wave forecast accuracy as compared to other Lagrangian models; hence, ICWM is well suited to providing accurate and efficient short-term ocean wave forecast (e.g. over a few peak periods). This aspect will be the object of future work.

Bottom pressure induced by the long nonlinear internal waves

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tatiana Talipova ◽  
Efim Pelinovsky
Keyword(s):  
Internal Wave ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Internal Waves ◽  
Pressure Fluctuations ◽  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Storm Surges ◽  
Andaman Sea ◽  
Bottom Pressure ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear Theory

<p>The bottom pressure sensors are widely used for the purpose of registration of the sea surface movement. They are particularly efficient to measure long surface waves like tsunami and storm surges. The bottom pressure gauges can be also used to record internal waves in coastal waters. For instance, the perspective system of the internal wave warning in the Andaman Sea is based on the bottom pressure variation data. Here we investigate theoretically the relation between long internal waves and induced bottom pressure fluctuations. Firstly, the linear relations are derived for the multi-modal internal wave field. Then, the weakly nonlinear theory is developed. Structurally, the obtained formula for the bottom pressure induced by the long internal waves is similar to those known for the surface waves within the Green-Naghdi system framework, but the coefficients are determined through the integrals for the water density stratification and vertical mode wave functions. In particular, the bottom pressure variations are calculated for solitary waves in two- and three-layer flows described by the Gardner equation.<br>The research is supported by RFBR grants No. 19-55-15005 and 19-05-00161.</p>

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