Evolution of high frequency waves in shoaling and breaking wave spectra

2019 ◽  
Vol 31 (8) ◽  
pp. 087102
Author(s):  
Samira Ardani ◽  
James M. Kaihatu
1997 ◽  
Vol 342 ◽  
pp. 377-401 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. E. BELCHER ◽  
J. C. VASSILICOS

When scaled properly, the high-wavenumber and high-frequency parts of wind-wave spectra collapse onto universal curves. This collapse has been attributed to a dynamical balance and so these parts of the spectra have been called the equilibrium range. We develop a model for this equilibrium range based on kinematical and dynamical properties of breaking waves. Data suggest that breaking waves have high curvature at their crests, and they are modelled here as waves with discontinuous slope at their crests. Spectra are then dominated by these singularities in slope. The equilibrium range is assumed to be scale invariant, meaning that there is no privileged lengthscale. This assumption implies that: (i) the sharp-crested breaking waves have self-similar shapes, so that large breaking waves are magnified copies of the smaller breaking waves; and (ii) statistical properties of breaking waves, such as the average total length of breaking-wave fronts of a given scale, vary with the scale of the breaking waves as a power law, parameterized here with exponent D.


2019 ◽  
Vol 9 (14) ◽  
pp. 2797 ◽  
Author(s):  
HanSung Kim ◽  
HeonYong Kang ◽  
Moo-Hyun Kim

The real-time inverse estimation of the ocean wave spectrum and elevation from a vessel-motion sensor is of significant practical importance, but it is still in the developing stage. The Kalman-filter method has the advantages of real-time estimation, cost reduction, and easy installation than other methods. Reasonable estimation of high-frequency waves is important in view of covering various sea states. However, if the vessel is less responsive for high-frequency waves, amplified noise may occur and cause overestimation problem there. In this paper, a configuration of Kalman filter with applying the principle of Wiener filter is proposed to suppress those over-estimations. Over-estimation is significantly reduced at high frequencies when the method is applied, and reliable real-time wave spectra and elevations can be obtained. The simulated sensor data was used, but the proposed algorithm has been proved to perform well for various sea states and different vessels. In addition, the proposed Kalman-filter technique is robust when it is applied to time-varying sea states.


1988 ◽  
Vol 37 (3) ◽  
pp. 469-474 ◽  
Author(s):  
A Bahnsen ◽  
M Jespersen ◽  
E Ungstrup ◽  
R Pottelette ◽  
M Malingre ◽  
...  

1968 ◽  
Vol 46 (10) ◽  
pp. S638-S641 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. B. Melrose

The acceleration of ions from thermal velocities is analyzed to determine conditions under which heavy ions can be preferentially accelerated. Two accelerating mechanisms involving high-and low-frequency hydromagnetic waves respectively are considered. Preferential acceleration of heavy ions occurs for high-frequency waves if the frequency spectrum falls off faster than (frequency)−1. For the low-frequency waves heavy ions are less effectively accelerated than lighter ions. However, very heavy ions can be preferentially accelerated, the abundances of the very heavy ions being enhanced by a factor Ai over the thermal abundances. Acceleration of ions in the envelope of the Crab nebula is considered as an example.


Author(s):  
Andrew L. Bodling ◽  
Anupam Sharma

A study was done to investigate how boundary layer tripping mechanisms can affect the ability of a permeable surface FW-H solver to predict the far field noise emanating from an airfoil trailing edge. The far field noise in a baseline airfoil as well as the baseline airfoil fitted with fin let fences was analyzed. Two numerical boundary layer tripping mechanisms were implemented. The results illustrated the importance of choosing a permeable integration surface that is outside any high frequency waves emanating from the trip region. The results also illustrated the importance of choosing a boundary layer tripping mechanism that minimizes any extraneous noise so that an integration surface can be taken close to the airfoil.


1984 ◽  
Vol 74 (2) ◽  
pp. 539-557
Author(s):  
P. Bernard ◽  
R. Madariaga

Abstract We study high-frequency radiation from a dislocation model of rupture propagation at the earthquake source. We demonstrate that in this case all the radiation emanates from the rupture front and, by a change of variables, that at any instant of time the high-frequency waves reaching an observer come from a line on the fault plane that we call isochrone. An asymptotic approximation to near-source velocity and acceleration is obtained that involves a simple integration along the isochrones for every time step. It is shown that wave front discontinuities (critical or stopping phases) are radiated every time an isochrone becomes tangent to a barrier. This leads to what we call the critical ray approximation which is given in a closed form. The previous results are compared with discrete wavenumber synthetics obtained by Bouchon (1982) for the Gilroy 6 recording of the Coyote Lake earthquake of 1980. The fit between the asymptotic and full numerical method is extremely good. The critical ray approximation permits the identification of different phases in Bouchon's synthetics and the prediction of the behavior of the signal in the vicinity of their arrival time.


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