Particle trajectories and mass transport under mechanically generated nonlinear water waves

2018 ◽  
Vol 30 (10) ◽  
pp. 102101 ◽  
Author(s):  
Maciej Paprota ◽  
Wojciech Sulisz
Keyword(s):  
Mass Transport ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Nonlinear Water Waves ◽  
Particle Trajectories

scholarly journals Theoretical and experimental study of particle trajectories for nonlinear water waves propagating on a sloping bottom

2012 ◽  
Vol 370 (1964) ◽  
pp. 1543-1571 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yang-Yih Chen ◽  
Meng-Syue Li ◽  
Hung-Chu Hsu ◽  
Chiu-On Ng
Keyword(s):  
Asymptotic Solution ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Surface Profile ◽  
Lagrangian Description ◽  
Nonlinear Water Waves ◽  
Third Order ◽  
Particle Trajectories ◽  
Free Surface Profile ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Sloping Bottom

A third-order asymptotic solution in Lagrangian description for nonlinear water waves propagating over a sloping beach is derived. The particle trajectories are obtained as a function of the nonlinear ordering parameter ε and the bottom slope α to the third order of perturbation. A new relationship between the wave velocity and the motions of particles at the free surface profile in the waves propagating on the sloping bottom is also determined directly in the complete Lagrangian framework. This solution enables the description of wave shoaling in the direction of wave propagation from deep to shallow water, as well as the successive deformation of wave profiles and water particle trajectories prior to breaking. A series of experiments are conducted to investigate the particle trajectories of nonlinear water waves propagating over a sloping bottom. It is shown that the present third-order asymptotic solution agrees very well with the experiments.

scholarly journals Study on the Interaction of Nonlinear Water Waves considering Random Seas

PAMM ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 20 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Marten Hollm ◽  
Leo Dostal ◽  
Hendrik Fischer ◽  
Robert Seifried
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Nonlinear Water Waves ◽  
Random Seas

scholarly journals New exact relations for steady irrotational two-dimensional gravity and capillary surface waves

2017 ◽  
Vol 376 (2111) ◽  
pp. 20170220 ◽  
Author(s):  
Didier Clamond
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Physical Plane ◽  
Theme Issue ◽  
Nonlinear Water Waves ◽  
Dimensional Gravity ◽  
Irrotational Motion ◽  
Exact Relations

Steady two-dimensional surface capillary–gravity waves in irrotational motion are considered on constant depth. By exploiting the holomorphic properties in the physical plane and introducing some transformations of the boundary conditions at the free surface, new exact relations and equations for the free surface only are derived. In particular, a physical plane counterpart of the Babenko equation is obtained. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.

Meshless numerical simulation for fully nonlinear water waves

2005 ◽  
Vol 50 (2) ◽  
pp. 219-234 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nan-Jing Wu ◽  
Ting-Kuei Tsay ◽  
D. L. Young
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Simulation ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Nonlinear Water Waves ◽  
Fully Nonlinear

scholarly journals Particle trajectories in solitary water waves

2007 ◽  
Vol 44 (03) ◽  
pp. 423-432 ◽  
Author(s):  
Adrian Constantin ◽  
Joachim Escher
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Particle Trajectories

scholarly journals Nonlinear water waves

2012 ◽  
Vol 370 (1964) ◽  
pp. 1501-1504 ◽  
Author(s):  
Adrian Constantin
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Theme Issue ◽  
Nonlinear Water Waves ◽  
Recent Developments

This introduction to the issue provides a review of some recent developments in the study of water waves. The content and contributions of the papers that make up this Theme Issue are also discussed.

scholarly journals Particle trajectories in linear deep-water waves

2008 ◽  
Vol 9 (4) ◽  
pp. 1336-1344 ◽  
Author(s):  
Adrian Constantin ◽  
Mats Ehrnström ◽  
Gabriele Villari
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Particle Trajectories ◽  
Deep Water Waves
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