Development of a New Practical Model for Sand Transport Induced by Non-Breaking Waves and Currents

2007 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jebbe J. van der Werf ◽  
Jan S. Ribberink ◽  
Tom O'Donoghue
Keyword(s):  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Practical Model

scholarly journals Practical sand transport formula for non-breaking waves and currents

2013 ◽  
Vol 76 ◽  
pp. 26-42 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dominic A. van der A ◽  
Jan S. Ribberink ◽  
Jebbe J. van der Werf ◽  
Tom O'Donoghue ◽  
René H. Buijsrogge ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Waves And Currents

scholarly journals NEW PRACTICAL MODEL FOR SAND TRANSPORT INDUCED BY NON-BREAKING WAVES AND CURRENTS

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 10
Author(s):  
Dominic Alexander Van der A ◽  
Jan S Ribberink ◽  
Jebbe J Van der Werf ◽  
Tom O'Donoghue
Keyword(s):  
Fine Sand ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Phase Lag ◽  
Flow Conditions ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Lag Effects ◽  
Flow Acceleration ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Waves And Currents

Many existing practical sand transport formulae for the coastal marine environment are restricted to limited ranges of hydrodynamic and sediment conditions. This paper presents a new practical formula for net sand transport induced by non-breaking waves and currents, and currents alone. The formula is based on the semi-unsteady, half wave-cycle concept, with bed shear stress as the main forcing parameter. Unsteady phase-lag effects between velocities and concentrations are accounted for, which are especially important for rippled bed and fine sand sheet-flow conditions. Recently recognized effects on the net transport related to flow acceleration skewness and progressive surface waves are also included. The formula is calibrated against a large dataset of net transport rate measurements from oscillatory flow tunnels and a large wave flume covering a wide range of flow and sand conditions. Good agreement is obtained between observations and predictions, and its validity is shown for bedload dominated steady flow conditions.

scholarly journals SHEETFLOW SEDIMENT TRANSPORT UNDER SKEWED - ASYMMETRIC WAVES AND CURRENTS

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 50 ◽  
Author(s):  
Le Phuong Dong ◽  
Shinji Sato
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Fine Sand ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Phase Lag ◽  
Half Cycle ◽  
Experimental Conditions ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Asymmetric Flows

Prototype scale laboratory experiments have been conducted to investigate the sheetflow sediment transport of uniform sands under different skewed-asymmetric oscillatory flows. Experimental results reveal that in most of the case with fine sand, the “cancelling effect”, which balances the on-/off-shore net transport under pure asymmetric/skewed flows and results a moderate net transport, was developed for combined skewed-asymmetric flow. However, under some certain conditions (T > 5s) with coarse sands, the onshore sediment transport was enhanced by 50% under combined skewed-asymmetric flows. Sand transport mechanism under oscillatory sheetflow conditions is also studied by comparing the maximum bed shear stress and the phase lag parameter at each half cycle. A comparison of measurements including the new experimental data with a number of practical sand transport formulations shows that the Dong et al. (2013) formulation performs the best in predicting the measured net transport rates over a wide range of experimental conditions

scholarly journals ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROLS ON LITTORAL SAND TRANSPORT

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 92 ◽  
Author(s):  
Paul D. Komar
Keyword(s):  
Environmental Factors ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Measurement Techniques ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Total Power ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Data Set ◽  
Environmental Controls ◽  
Gravel Beaches

Quantities of sand transported along beaches are generally related to the "longshore component of wave power", F^, through the proportionality is = KF£ where l8 is the immersed-weight sand transport rate and K is a dimensionless proportionality factor. A more-generally applicable relationship is that of Bagnold, ls = K'(ECn)bvL/um where (ECn)b is the energy flux or total power of the breaking waves, y^ is the longshore current, um is the mean orbital velocity under the waves, and K' is another dimensionless coefficient. It is apparent that sediment transport rates on beaches should depend on environmental factors such as the grain diameter or settling velocity, and possibly on factors such as the beach slope or wave steepness. However, examinations of such dependencies for K and K' within the field data are hampered by problems with large random scatter within any one data set, and by systematic differences between separate studies which have employed diverse measurement techniques. Examinations of the field data for K and K' variations indicate that meaningful dependencies on sediment grain diameters and other factors cannot be established with confidence in the sand-size range. Limited data available from gravel beaches support the expected decreases in K and K' with increasing grain sizes. These data are too few in numbers to establish firm trends, but do suggest that future investigations to establish dependencies on environmental factors would be most profitably undertaken on gravel beaches. The measurements collected in recent years from sand beaches suggest revisions in average K and K' coefficients to be used in transport evaluations, but such revisions must be coordinated such that K/K' = 2.7 so as to maintain agreement with the longshore current data.

scholarly journals Sand transport under combined current and wave conditions: A semi-unsteady, practical model

2006 ◽  
Vol 53 (11) ◽  
pp. 897-913 ◽  
Author(s):  
Paulo Alves da Silva ◽  
André Temperville ◽  
Fernando Seabra Santos
Keyword(s):  
Sand Transport ◽  
Practical Model ◽  
Wave Conditions

Towards a process-based model to predict dune erosion along the Dutch Wadden coast

2012 ◽  
Vol 91 (3) ◽  
pp. 357-372 ◽  
Author(s):  
B.G. Ruessink ◽  
M. Boers ◽  
P.F.C. van Geer ◽  
A.T.M. de Bakker ◽  
A. Pieterse ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Current Knowledge ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Field Studies ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
Erosion Model ◽  
Dune Erosion

AbstractAn equilibrium dune-erosion model is used every six years to assess the capability of the most seaward dune row on the Dutch Wadden islands to withstand a storm with a 1 in 10,000 probability for a given year. The present-day model is the culmination of numerous laboratory experiments with an initial cross-shore profile based on the central Netherlands coast. Large parts of the dune coast of the Wadden islands have substantially different dune and cross-shore profile characteristics than found along this central coast, related to the presence of tidal channels, ebb-tidal deltas, beach-plains and strong coastal curvature. This complicated coastal setting implies that the predictions of the dune-erosion model are sometimes doubtful; accordingly, a shift towards a process-based dune-erosion model has been proposed. A number of research findings based on recent laboratory and field studies highlight only few of the many challenges that need to be faced in order to develop and test such a model. Observations of turbulence beneath breaking waves indicate the need to include breaking-wave effects in sand transport equations, while current knowledge of infragravity waves, one of the main sand transporting mechanisms during severe storm conditions, is strongly challenged by laboratory and field observations on gently sloping beaches that are so typical of the Wadden islands. We argue that in-situ and remote-sensing field observations, laboratory experiments and numerical models need to be the pillars of Earth Scientific research in the Wadden Sea area to construct a meaningful process-based dune-erosion tool.

scholarly journals Effects of current on wind waves in strong winds

Ocean Science ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 16 (5) ◽  
pp. 1033-1045
Author(s):  
Naohisa Takagaki ◽  
Naoya Suzuki ◽  
Yuliya Troitskaya ◽  
Chiaki Tanaka ◽  
Alexander Kandaurov ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Phase Velocity ◽  
Doppler Shift ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Surface Current ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Frequency ◽  
High Wind ◽  
Adequate Model ◽  
Wind Speeds ◽  
Waves And Currents

Abstract. It is important to investigate the effects of current on wind waves, called the Doppler shift, at both normal and extremely high wind speeds. Three different types of wind-wave tanks along with a fan and pump are used to demonstrate wind waves and currents in laboratories at Kyoto University, Japan, Kindai University, Japan, and the Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, Russia. Profiles of the wind and current velocities and the water-level fluctuation are measured. The wave frequency, wavelength, and phase velocity of the significant waves are calculated, and the water velocities at the water surface and in the bulk of the water are also estimated by the current distribution. The study investigated 27 cases with measurements of winds, waves, and currents at wind speeds ranging from 7 to 67 m s−1. At normal wind speeds under 30 m s−1, wave frequency, wavelength, and phase velocity depend on wind speed and fetch. The effect of the Doppler shift is confirmed at normal wind speeds; i.e., the significant waves are accelerated by the surface current. The phase velocity can be represented as the sum of the surface current and artificial phase velocity, which is estimated by the dispersion relation of the deepwater waves. At extremely high wind speeds over 30 m s−1, a similar Doppler shift is observed as under the conditions of normal wind speeds. This suggests that the Doppler shift is an adequate model for representing the acceleration of wind waves by current, not only for wind waves at normal wind speeds but also for those with intensive breaking at extremely high wind speeds. A weakly nonlinear model of surface waves at a shear flow is developed. It is shown that it describes dispersion properties well not only for small-amplitude waves but also strongly nonlinear and even breaking waves, which are typical for extreme wind conditions (over 30 m s−1).

scholarly journals MODELING COARSE SAND TRANSPORT UNDER SKEWED OSCILLATORY FLOW USING A CFD-DEM APPROACH

2018 ◽  
pp. 18
Author(s):  
Yashar Rafati ◽  
Zhen Cheng ◽  
Xiao Yu ◽  
Tian-Jian Hsu ◽  
Joseph Calantoni
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Regional Scale ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Coarse Sand ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Sheet Flow ◽  
Two Phase ◽  
Coastal Morphology ◽  
Flow Transport

Onshore/offshore sediment transport in the nearshore is an important mechanism driving the evolution of coastal morphology. The so-called sheet flow is a transport regime, in which the flow forces are intense such that a large amount of transport occurs in a concentrated layer near the bed. Onshore transport is often associated with flow skewness/asymmetry. In the nearshore zone, due to the bottom slope and wave shoaling, the wave velocity tends be onshore skewed before breaking in the surf zone. For breaking waves, the velocity asymmetry (or acceleration skewness) may also play a key role in determining net sediment transport. Understanding the net sediment transport rate in response to wave skewness/asymmetry is fundamental to a better prediction of sediment transport in regional scale morphodynamic models. In this study, we used an Euler-Lagrange two-phase model to study sheet flow transport of coarse sand under oscillatory flows subject to velocity/acceleration skewness.

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