Vertical structure of the undertow outside the surf zone

1993 ◽  
Vol 98 (C12) ◽  
pp. 22707 ◽  
Author(s):  
Uday Putrevu ◽  
Ib A. Svendsen
Keyword(s):  
Vertical Structure ◽  
Surf Zone

scholarly journals Vertical structure of mean cross-shore currents across a barred surf zone

1994 ◽  
Vol 99 (C7) ◽  
pp. 14223 ◽  
Author(s):  
John W. Haines ◽  
Asbury H. Sallenger
Keyword(s):  
Vertical Structure ◽  
Surf Zone

scholarly journals Observations and a Model of Undertow over the Inner Continental Shelf

2008 ◽  
Vol 38 (11) ◽  
pp. 2341-2357 ◽  
Author(s):  
Steven J. Lentz ◽  
Melanie Fewings ◽  
Peter Howd ◽  
Janet Fredericks ◽  
Kent Hathaway
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Vertical Structure ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Vertical Shear ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves ◽  
Offshore Flow ◽  
Offshore Transport

Abstract Onshore volume transport (Stokes drift) due to surface gravity waves propagating toward the beach can result in a compensating Eulerian offshore flow in the surf zone referred to as undertow. Observed offshore flows indicate that wave-driven undertow extends well offshore of the surf zone, over the inner shelves of Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts, and North Carolina. Theoretical estimates of the wave-driven offshore transport from linear wave theory and observed wave characteristics account for 50% or more of the observed offshore transport variance in water depths between 5 and 12 m, and reproduce the observed dependence on wave height and water depth. During weak winds, wave-driven cross-shelf velocity profiles over the inner shelf have maximum offshore flow (1–6 cm s−1) and vertical shear near the surface and weak flow and shear in the lower half of the water column. The observed offshore flow profiles do not resemble the parabolic profiles with maximum flow at middepth observed within the surf zone. Instead, the vertical structure is similar to the Stokes drift velocity profile but with the opposite direction. This vertical structure is consistent with a dynamical balance between the Coriolis force associated with the offshore flow and an along-shelf “Hasselmann wave stress” due to the influence of the earth’s rotation on surface gravity waves. The close agreement between the observed and modeled profiles provides compelling evidence for the importance of the Hasselmann wave stress in forcing oceanic flows. Summer profiles are more vertically sheared than either winter profiles or model profiles, for reasons that remain unclear.

scholarly journals SHORE-PARALLEL FLOWS IN A BARRED NEARSHORE

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 101
Author(s):  
Brian Greenwood ◽  
Douglas J. Sherman
Keyword(s):  
Vertical Structure ◽  
Roughness Length ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Parameter Estimate ◽  
Velocity Profiles ◽  
Electromagnetic Current ◽  
Data Smoothing ◽  
Parallel Flows ◽  
Mixing Parameter ◽  
Waves And Currents

A field experiment to measure the horizontal and vertical structure of shore-parallel, nearshore currents was conducted at Wendake Beach, Georgian Bay, Canada, in 1980. Waves and currents were measured with continuous resistance wire wave staffs and bi-directional, electromagnetic current meters, respectively. Substantial variations from theoretical horizontal velocity profiles were found as an influence of small amplitude nearshore bars. Data smoothing resulted in a Longuet- Higgins type mixing parameter estimate of P=0.18. Vertical velocity profiles analysis suggests that an estimate of mean, surf zone roughness length is of the order of lxl0-3m.

A Quasi-3D Surf Zone Model

1995 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jung Lyul Lee ◽  
Hsiang Wang
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Zone Model

Nonlinear Wave Dynamics in the Surf Zone

1997 ◽  
Author(s):  
O. R. Sørensen ◽  
P. A. Madsen ◽  
H. A. Schäffer
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Dynamics

Mixing of Heated Water Discharged in the Surf Zone

1978 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kiyoshi Horikawa ◽  
Ming-Chung Lin ◽  
Tamio O. Sasaki
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Heated Water

LIQUIDUS THERMO-BAROMETER FOR THE MODELING OF MAGNETITE — MELT EQUILIBRIUM

2018 ◽  
pp. 71-80
Author(s):  
N. S. Aryaeva ◽  
E. V. Koptev-Dvornikov ◽  
D. A. Bychkov
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Liquidus Temperature ◽  
Vertical Structure ◽  
Maximum Error ◽  
Silicate Melt ◽  
System Of Equations ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Basaltic Melts ◽  
Multidimensional Statistics

A system of equations of thermobarometer for magnetite-silicate melt equilibrium was obtained by method of multidimensional statistics of 93 experimental data of a magnetite solubility in basaltic melts. Equations reproduce experimental data in a wide range of basalt compositions, temperatures and pressures with small errors. Verification of thermobarometers showed the maximum error in liquidus temperature reproducing does not exceed ±7 °C. The level of cumulative magnetite appearance in the vertical structure of Tsypringa, Kivakka, Burakovsky intrusions predicted with errors from ±10 to ±50 m.

The coastal refraction-diffraction wave propagation model

1995 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 6-12
Author(s):  
Nguyen Tien Dat ◽  
Dinh Van Manh ◽  
Nguyen Minh Son
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Propagation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Diffraction Effect ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Diffraction Wave ◽  
Linear Wave Propagation ◽  
Wave Propagation Model

A mathematical model on linear wave propagation toward shore is chosen and corresponding software is built. The wave transformation outside and inside the surf zone is considered including the diffraction effect. The model is tested by laboratory and field data and gave reasonables results.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document