scholarly journals A New Probabilistic Wave Breaking Model for Dominant Wind‐sea Waves Based on the Gaussian Field Theory

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. E. Stringari ◽  
M. Prevosto ◽  
J.‐F. Filipot ◽  
F. Leckler ◽  
P. V. Guimarães
Keyword(s):  
Field Theory ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Gaussian Field ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Wave Breaking Model ◽  
Wind Sea

scholarly journals A New Probabilistic Wave Breaking Model for Dominant Wind-sea Waves Based on the Gaussian Field Theory

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Caio Eadi Stringari ◽  
Marc Prevosto ◽  
Jean François Filipot ◽  
Fabien Leckler ◽  
Pedro Veras Guimaraes
Keyword(s):  
Field Theory ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Gaussian Field ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Wave Breaking Model ◽  
Wind Sea

scholarly journals A New Probabilistic Wave Breaking Model for Dominant Wind-sea Waves Based on the Gaussian

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Caio Eadi Stringari ◽  
Marc Prevosto ◽  
Jean François Filipot ◽  
Fabien Leckler ◽  
Pedro Veras Guimaraes
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Wave Breaking Model ◽  
Wind Sea

scholarly journals The Transition from Downward to Upward Air–Sea Momentum Flux in Swell-Dominated Light Wind Conditions

2018 ◽  
Vol 75 (8) ◽  
pp. 2579-2588 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ulf Högström ◽  
Erik Sahlée ◽  
Ann-Sofi Smedman ◽  
Anna Rutgersson ◽  
Erik Nilsson ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wind Speed ◽  
Momentum Flux ◽  
Water Surface ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Progressive Wave ◽  
Wind Speeds ◽  
Low Wind Speed ◽  
Light Wind ◽  
Wind Sea ◽  
Almost All

Abstract Fifteen hours of consecutive swell data from the experiment Flux, État de la Mer, et Télédétection en Condition de Fetch Variable (FETCH) in the Mediterranean show a distinct upward momentum flux. The characteristics are shown to vary systematically with wind speed. A hysteresis effect is found for wave energy of the wind-sea waves when represented as a function of wind speed, displaying higher energy during decaying winds compared to increasing winds. For the FETCH measurements, the upward momentum transfer regime is found to begin for wind speeds lower than about U = 4 m s−1. For the lowest observed wind speeds U < 2.4 m s−1, the water surface appears to be close to dynamically smooth. In this range almost all the upward momentum flux is accomplished by the peak in the cospectrum between the vertical and horizontal components of the wind velocity. It is demonstrated that this contribution in turn is linearly related to the swell significant wave height Hsd in the range 0.6 < Hsd < 1.4 m. For Hsd < 0.6 m, the contribution is zero in the present dataset but may depend on the swell magnitude in other situations. It is speculated that the observed upward momentum flux in the smooth regime, which is so strongly related to the cospectral peak at the dominant swell frequency, might be caused by the recirculation mechanism found by Wen and Mobbs in their numerical simulation of laminar flow of a nonlinear progressive wave at low wind speed.

10-year high resolution study of wind, sea waves and wave energy assessment in the Greek offshore areas

2016 ◽  
Vol 90 ◽  
pp. 399-419 ◽  
Author(s):  
George Emmanouil ◽  
George Galanis ◽  
Christina Kalogeri ◽  
George Zodiatis ◽  
George Kallos
Keyword(s):  
High Resolution ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Energy Assessment ◽  
Wind Sea ◽  
Resolution Study

scholarly journals The Statistical Theory of Breaking Entrainment Depth and Surface Whitecap Coverage of Real Sea Waves

2009 ◽  
Vol 39 (1) ◽  
pp. 143-161 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yeli Yuan ◽  
Lei Han ◽  
Feng Hua ◽  
Shuwen Zhang ◽  
Fangli Qiao ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Statistical Theory ◽  
Wind Speed ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surface Wind ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Formation Model ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Whitecap Coverage ◽  
Analytic Expressions ◽  
Sea Wave

Abstract Some basic statistics for wave breaking have been derived based on the statistical model of real sea waves. The analytic expressions of breaking entrainment depth and surface whitecap coverage involved with both sea wave characteristics and surface wind velocity have been derived on the basis of the whitecap formation model. The concept of the upper envelope for all the whitecap coverage data versus wind speed has been proposed, and it is assumed to correspond to the whitecap coverage in the case of the infinite wind duration and fetch to determine the model constants. The analytic expressions of breaking entrainment depth and whitecap coverage have been compared with the observations in several ways, and consistently favorable agreement can be found for most observations.

Evolution and breaking of parametrically forced capillary waves in a circular cylinder

2009 ◽  
Vol 633 ◽  
pp. 355-379 ◽  
Author(s):  
BABURAJ A. PUTHENVEETTIL ◽  
E. J. HOPFINGER
Keyword(s):  
Circular Cylinder ◽  
Power Law ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Pattern ◽  
Capillary Waves ◽  
Drop Diameter ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Low Viscosity ◽  
Order Of Magnitude ◽  
Wave Breaking Model

We present results on parametrically forced capillary waves in a circular cylinder, obtained in the limit of large fluid depth, using two low-viscosity liquids whose surface tensions differ by an order of magnitude. The evolution of the wave patterns from the instability to the wave-breaking threshold is investigated in a forcing frequency range (f= ω/2π = 25–100 Hz) that is around the crossover frequency (ωot) from gravity to capillary waves (ωot/2≤ω/2≤4ωot). As expected, near the instability threshold the wave pattern depends on the container geometry, but as the forcing amplitude is increased the wave pattern becomes random, and the wall effects are insignificant. Near breaking, the distribution of random wavelengths can be fitted by a Gaussian. A new gravity–capillary scaling is introduced that is more appropriate, than the usual viscous scaling, for low-viscosity fluids and forcing frequencies <103Hz. In terms of these scales, a criterion is derived to predict the crossover from capillary- to gravity-dominated breaking. A wave-breaking model is developed that gives the relation between the container and the wave accelerations in agreement with experiments. The measured drop size distribution of the ejected drops above the breaking threshold is well approximated by a gamma distribution. The mean drop diameter is proportional to the wavelength determined from the dispersion relation; this wavelength is also close to the most likely wavelength of the random waves at drop ejection. The dimensionless drop ejection rate is shown to have a cubic power law dependence on the dimensionless excess acceleration ε′dan inertial–gravitational ligament formation model is consistent with such a power law.

SPECTRAL WAVE MODELLING IN TIDAL INLET SEAS: RESULTS FROM THE SBW WADDEN SEA PROJECT

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 44 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ap Van Dongeren ◽  
Andre Van der Westhuysen ◽  
Jacco Groeneweg ◽  
Gerbrant Van Vledder ◽  
Joost Lansen ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wadden Sea ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Finite Depth ◽  
Transformation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Wave Conditions

Over the last five years a research program has been carried out to assess the performance of the spectral wave model SWAN in the Wadden Sea so that it may be used for the transformation of offshore wave conditions to wave boundary conditions near the sea defenses (dikes and dunes). The assessment was done on the basis of extensive wave measurements conducted in Ameland inlet and the Dutch Eastern Wadden Sea, as well as relevant data from lakes and estuaries. After a first round of assessment, we found that SWAN performed reasonably well for storm conditions but three aspects required further attention. Firstly, focusing on the main channel, SWAN formulations needed to be modified in order to eliminate overprediction of the significant wave height in opposing currents. Secondly, the primary spectral peak of North Sea waves penetrating into the inlet was underpredicted. Best results were obtained when the refraction of low-frequency waves was limited and the bottom friction coefficient was set at a lower value than the current default for wind seas. Thirdly, over the tidal flats the computed ratio of integral wave height over water depth showed an apparent upper limit using the conventional Battjes and Janssen (1978) depth-limited wave breaking formulation, because the wave growth over finite depth is hampered by the present formulation of depth-induced wave breaking. The problem has been solved using a new breaker formulation. All these improvements have lead to a wave transformation model with which reliable wave conditions in the Wadden Sea and related complex areas can be determined.

The Sensitivity of Set-Up/Set-Down and Wave-Driven Currents to Different Breaking Models

2007 ◽  
Author(s):  
Carl Newell ◽  
Thomas Mullarkey
Keyword(s):  
Boundary Condition ◽  
Wave Equation ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Velocity Potential ◽  
Interaction Model ◽  
Radiation Stress ◽  
Current Interaction ◽  
Wave Breaking Model ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Derivatives Of

The authors have developed a wave-current interaction model. It includes a wave sub-model based on the elliptic form of the mild slope wave equation with a parabolic mild slope wave equation as a boundary condition. It also includes a hydrodynamic sub-model which has been developed to examine set-up, set-down and currents in the coastal zone. The wave breaking model used in the wave sub-model affects the results of set-up, set-down and current obtained using the hydrodynamic sub-model. This paper examines a number of different breaking models and compares the set-up, set-down and currents obtained using radiation stress values which are calculated from derivatives of velocity potential. The velocity potential is obtained in the wave sub-model using the various breaking models being examined. The results show a number of possible breaking models for set-up and set-down calculation and also shows shortcomings in various breaking models when it comes to calculation of longshore currents.

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