scholarly journals Vertical distribution of wave shear stress in variable water depth: Theory and field observations

Author(s):  
Qingping Zou ◽  
Anthony J. Bowen ◽  
Alex E. Hay
2012 ◽  
Vol 212-213 ◽  
pp. 1155-1160
Author(s):  
Zhuo Zhang ◽  
Zhi Yao Song

Turbulence shear stress is an important dynamic characteristic of flow in tidal channel. In the paper, the new vertical distribution of the tidal turbulence shear stress, which can reflect the development of the stress profile over the tidal period, is proposed. The comparison between computed result and the data from field and experiment measurements indicates that the proposed vertical distribution which agrees well with the measurements can well depict the upward concave distribution in phase of accelerating process and upward convex in phase of decelerating process. Through analyzing the amplitude and phase variation along the depth on different conditions, it is found that it is the nondimensional parameter , namely the ratio of tidal period, turbulence intensity and water depth that determines the form of turbulence shear stress distribution during tidal period.


Author(s):  
Ruchir Parikh ◽  
Umang Patdiwala ◽  
Shaival Parikh ◽  
Hitesh Panchal ◽  
Kishor Kumar Sadasivuni

2017 ◽  
Vol 75 (3) ◽  
pp. 1721-1756 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. S. Jang

Abstract This paper begins with a question of existence of a regular integral equation formalism, but different from the existing usual ones, for solving the standard Boussinesq’s equations for variable water depth (or Peregrine’s model). For the question, a pseudo-water depth parameter, suggested by Jang (Commun Nonlinear Sci Numer Simul 43:118–138, 2017), is introduced to alter the standard Boussinesq’s equations into an integral formalism. This enables us to construct a regular (nonlinear) integral equations of second kind (as required), being equivalent to the standard Boussinesq’s equations (of Peregrine’s model). The (constructed) integral equations are, of course, inherently different from the usual integral equation formalisms. For solving them, the successive approximation (or the fixed point iteration) is applied (Jang 2017), whereby a new iterative formula is immediately derived, in this paper, for numerical solutions of the standard Boussinesq’s equations for variable water depth. The formula, semi-analytic and derivative-free, is shown to be useful to observe especially the nonlinear wave phenomena of shallow water waves on a beach. In fact, a numerical experiment is performed on a solitary wave approaching a sloping beach. It shows clearly the main feature of nonlinear wave characteristics, which has reached good agreement with the known (numerical) solutions. Hence, while being theoretical but fundamental in nonlinear computational partial differential equations, the question raised in the study may be solved.


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