scholarly journals Cross-shore sediment transport on natural beaches and its relation to sandbar migration patterns: 1. Field observations and derivation of a transport parameterization

2007 ◽  
Vol 112 (C3) ◽  
Author(s):  
I. J. Mariño-Tapia ◽  
P. E. Russell ◽  
T. J. O'Hare ◽  
M. A. Davidson ◽  
D. A. Huntley
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
Migration Patterns ◽  
Sandbar Migration

scholarly journals Morphodynamic Evolution of a Nourished Beach with Artificial Sandbars: Field Observations and Numerical Modeling

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 245
Author(s):  
Cuiping Kuang ◽  
Xuejian Han ◽  
Jiabo Zhang ◽  
Qingping Zou ◽  
Boling Dong
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Tidal Current ◽  
Model Simulation ◽  
Morphological Changes ◽  
Current Model ◽  
Beach Nourishment ◽  
Tidal Range ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
One Year

Beach nourishment, a common practice to replenish an eroded beach face with filling sand, has become increasingly popular as an environmentally friendly soft engineering measure to tackle coastal erosion. In this study, three 200 m long offshore submerged sandbars were placed about 200 m from the shore in August 2017 for both coastal protection and beach nourishment at Shanhai Pass, Bohai Sea, northeastern China. A series of 21 beach profiles were collected from August 2017 to July 2018 to monitor the morphological changes of the nourished beach. Field observations of wave and tide levels were conducted for one year and tidal current for 25 h, respectively. To investigate the spatial-temporal responses of hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphology to the presence of three artificial submerged sandbars, a two-dimensional depth-averaged (2DH) multi-fraction sediment transport and morphological model were coupled with wave and current model and implemented over a spatially varying nested grid. The model results compare well with the field observations of hydrodynamics and morphological changes. The tidal range was around 1.0 m and the waves predominately came from the south-south-east (SSE) direction in the study area. The observed and predicted beach profiles indicate that the sandbars moved onshore and the morphology experienced drastic changes immediately after the introduction of sandbars and reached an equilibrium state in about one year. The morphological change was mainly driven by waves. Under the influences of the prevailing waves and the longshore drift toward the northeast, the coastline on the leeside of the sandbars advanced seaward by 35 m maximally while the rest adjacent coastline retreated severely by 44 m maximally within August 2017–July 2018. The model results demonstrate that the three sandbars have little effect on the tidal current but attenuate the incoming wave significantly. As a result, the medium-coarse sand of sandbars is transported onshore and the background silt is mainly transported offshore and partly in the longshore direction toward the northeast. The 2- and 5-year model simulation results further indicate that shoreline salient may form behind the sandbars and protrude offshore enough to reach the sandbars, similar to the tombolo behind the breakwater.

scholarly journals Wave-induced sediment transport and onshore sandbar migration

2006 ◽  
Vol 53 (10) ◽  
pp. 817-824 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tian-Jian Hsu ◽  
Steve Elgar ◽  
R.T. Guza
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Sandbar Migration

scholarly journals Numerical Simulations of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami Deposits Thicknesses and Emplacements

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
◽  
Musa Al'ala ◽  
Hermann M. Fritz ◽  
Mirza Fahmi ◽  
Teuku Mudi Hafli
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Indian Ocean ◽  
Numerical Simulations ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Indian Ocean Tsunami ◽  
Tsunami Deposit ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
Tsunami Deposits ◽  
2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami

Abstract. After more than a decade of recurring tsunamis, identification of tsunami deposits, a part of hazard characterization, still remains a challenging task not fully understood. The lack of sufficient monitoring equipment and rare tsunami frequency are among the primary obstacles that limit our fundamental understanding of sediment transport mechanisms during a tsunami. The use of numerical simulations to study tsunami-induced sediment transport was rare in Indonesia until the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. This study aims to couple two hydrodynamic numerical models in order to reproduce tsunami-induced sediment deposits, i.e., their locations and thicknesses. Numerical simulations were performed using the Cornell Multi-Grid Coupled Tsunami Model (COMCOT) and Delft3D. This study reconstructed tsunami wave propagation from its source using COMCOT, which was later combined with Delft3D to map the location of the tsunami deposits and calculate their thicknesses. Two Dimensional-Horizontal (2DH) models were used as part of both simulation packages. Lhoong, in the Aceh Besar District, located approximately 60 km southwest of Banda Aceh, was selected as the study area. Field data collected in 2015 and 2016 validated the forward modeling techniques adopted in this study. However, agreements between numerical simulations and field observations were more robust using data collected in 2005, i.e., just months after the tsunami (Jaffe et al., 2006). We conducted pit (trench) tests at select locations to obtain tsunami deposit thickness and grain size distributions. The resulting numerical simulations are useful when estimating the locations and the thicknesses of the tsunami deposits. The agreement between the field data and the numerical simulations is reasonable despite a trend that overestimates the field observations.

scholarly journals Onshore sandbar migration in the surf zone: New insights into the wave-induced sediment transport mechanisms

2015 ◽  
Vol 42 (8) ◽  
pp. 2869-2877 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Fernández-Mora ◽  
D. Calvete ◽  
A. Falqués ◽  
H. E. de Swart
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Transport Mechanisms ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Sandbar Migration
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