scholarly journals Field observations of shear waves in the surf zone

2004 ◽  
Vol 109 (C1) ◽  
Author(s):  
T. James Noyes
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Shear Waves ◽  
Field Observations

scholarly journals Refraction of Surface Gravity Waves by Shear Waves

2006 ◽  
Vol 36 (4) ◽  
pp. 629-635 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stephen M. Henderson ◽  
R. T. Guza ◽  
Steve Elgar ◽  
T. H. C. Herbers
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Shear Waves ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
New Model ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves ◽  
Snell’S Law ◽  
The Cross ◽  
Snell's Law

Abstract Previous field observations indicate that the directional spread of swell-frequency (nominally 0.1 Hz) surface gravity waves increases during shoreward propagation across the surf zone. This directional broadening contrasts with the narrowing observed seaward of the surf zone and predicted by Snell’s law for bathymetric refraction. Field-observed broadening was predicted by a new model for refraction of swell by lower-frequency (nominally 0.01 Hz) current and elevation fluctuations. The observations and the model suggest that refraction by the cross-shore currents of energetic shear waves contributed substantially to the observed broadening.

Field observations of the effect of shear waves on sediment suspension and transport

2002 ◽  
Vol 22 (4) ◽  
pp. 657-681 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.R. Miles ◽  
P.E. Russell ◽  
B.G. Ruessink ◽  
D.A. Huntley
Keyword(s):  
Shear Waves ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
Sediment Suspension

BALTIC AMBER MIGRATIONS AS A MODEL OF MICROPLASTICS BEHAVIOR IN THE SEA COASTAL ZONE

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Irina Chubarenko ◽  
Irina Chubarenko ◽  
Margarita Bagaeva ◽  
Margarita Bagaeva
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Baltic Amber ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
Direction Change ◽  
Kaliningrad Oblast ◽  
Wind Analysis ◽  
Furcellaria Lumbricalis ◽  
Long Time ◽  
Winter Time ◽  
Negatively Buoyant

The problem of microplastic pollution is of increasing concern. Behaviour of microplastic particles (0.5 mm < L < 5mm in the largest dimension) in marine environment is difficult to predict, and no field observations are available up to now. Baltic amber (succinite), with its density of about 1.05-1.09 g/cm3, fits the range of densities of slightly negatively buoyant plastics: polyamide, polystyrene, acrylic, etc. Baltic citizens have observed amber migrations for centuries, and the collected information may shed some light onto general features of microplastic particles behaviour. Events of “amber washing-out” at the sea shore of the Sambian peninsula (Kaliningrad oblast, Russia) typically take place in autumn-winter time. Experience of divers indicates that amber is washed out from the depths as deep as 15 m. Massive presence in amber-containing debris of the red algae Furcellaria lumbricalis, dominating in the sea at depths of 6-15 m, proves this fact. From oceanographic viewpoint, important for the “amber washing-out” are: strong and long-lasting storm, phase of wind decrease or direction change, developed long surface waves, shore exposure to wind. Analysis of characteristic wave lengths after long storms, dimensions of their surf zone, and changes in underwater bottom profile is carried out. Conclusion is that slightly negatively buoyant microplastic particles should migrate for a long time between beaches and underwater slopes until they are broken into small enough pieces that can be transported by currents to deeper area and deposited out of reach of stormy waves.

scholarly journals SPATIOTEMPORAL ANALYSIS OF VARIATIONS OF CERTAIN MORPHOLOGICAL BEACH FORMS

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 82 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zbigniew Pruszak ◽  
Jan Schönhofer ◽  
Grzegorz Różyński
Keyword(s):  
Spectral Analysis ◽  
Wavelet Transform ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Spatial Scales ◽  
Spatiotemporal Analysis ◽  
Discrete Wavelet ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
Simple Geometry ◽  
Meso Scale

The study is focused on spatiotemporal shoreline variability at a beach with a wide surf zone featuring 3-5 bars based on field observations done between 1983-2008 in the south Baltic Sea. The implementation of various analyses from simple geometry, through spectral analysis up to Discrete Wavelet Transform (DWT) allowed for a synergistic description of simultaneous shoreline and dune foot variability in space and time. The results include meso-scale and long-term phenomena with time scales from several months to many years and spatial scales ranking between a few hundred meters up to several kilometers.

scholarly journals LOCAL MOVEMENTS OF SAND IN THE SURF ZONE

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 91 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kazumasa Katoh ◽  
Norio Tanaka
Keyword(s):  
Fluid Dynamics ◽  
Pacific Ocean ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
Time Intervals ◽  
Injection Point ◽  
Core Samples ◽  
Fluid Velocities ◽  
The Pacific ◽  
The Pacific Ocean

The fluorescent sand tracers are injected in a point in the surf zone. Core samples are taken from the sixteen points on the circumference with the time intervals of fifteen minutes for about five hours. At the same time, the horizontal two components of fluid velocities are measured at the injection point by using an electromagnetic currentmeter. The field observations have been carried out three times on two beaches facing to the Pacific Ocean. The relations between the local sand movements and the fluid dynamics are examined on the basis of the data obtained.

BALTIC AMBER MIGRATIONS AS A MODEL OF MICROPLASTICS BEHAVIOR IN THE SEA COASTAL ZONE

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Irina Chubarenko ◽  
Irina Chubarenko ◽  
Margarita Bagaeva ◽  
Margarita Bagaeva
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Baltic Amber ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
Direction Change ◽  
Kaliningrad Oblast ◽  
Wind Analysis ◽  
Furcellaria Lumbricalis ◽  
Long Time ◽  
Winter Time ◽  
Negatively Buoyant

The problem of microplastic pollution is of increasing concern. Behaviour of microplastic particles (0.5 mm < L < 5mm in the largest dimension) in marine environment is difficult to predict, and no field observations are available up to now. Baltic amber (succinite), with its density of about 1.05-1.09 g/cm3, fits the range of densities of slightly negatively buoyant plastics: polyamide, polystyrene, acrylic, etc. Baltic citizens have observed amber migrations for centuries, and the collected information may shed some light onto general features of microplastic particles behaviour. Events of “amber washing-out” at the sea shore of the Sambian peninsula (Kaliningrad oblast, Russia) typically take place in autumn-winter time. Experience of divers indicates that amber is washed out from the depths as deep as 15 m. Massive presence in amber-containing debris of the red algae Furcellaria lumbricalis, dominating in the sea at depths of 6-15 m, proves this fact. From oceanographic viewpoint, important for the “amber washing-out” are: strong and long-lasting storm, phase of wind decrease or direction change, developed long surface waves, shore exposure to wind. Analysis of characteristic wave lengths after long storms, dimensions of their surf zone, and changes in underwater bottom profile is carried out. Conclusion is that slightly negatively buoyant microplastic particles should migrate for a long time between beaches and underwater slopes until they are broken into small enough pieces that can be transported by currents to deeper area and deposited out of reach of stormy waves.

scholarly journals OBSERVATIONS OF SEDIMENT PARTICLE MOVEMENTS UNDER ACCRETIVE WAVE CONDITIONS

2018 ◽  
pp. 68
Author(s):  
Takayuki Suzuki ◽  
Yu Inami ◽  
Shinichi Yanagishima ◽  
Shuhei Sakihama ◽  
Daniel Cox
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Outer Side ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
Swash Zone ◽  
Sediment Particle ◽  
Beach Management ◽  
Sediment Movement ◽  
Recovery Duration ◽  
Wave Conditions

From the aspect of beach management, understanding of sediment movement from the outer-surf zone to the swash zone during recovery duration is important. In this study, field observations were conducted during accretive wave conditions to investigate the sediment movement from the outer side of the bar to the swash zone using fluorescent sand tracers.

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