Single-wave run-up on sloping beaches

1976 ◽  
Vol 74 (4) ◽  
pp. 685-694 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lester Q. Spielvogel
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Single Wave ◽  
Initial Wave ◽  
Wave Trains ◽  
Run Up

Possibilities of high shoreline amplification and run-up are investigated. A shoreline amplification of magnitude 5·38 and a tsunamigenic (deep water) amplification of magnitude 5·71 are obtained from single waves without analytic or computational difficulties. It is not claimed that these are a maximum, but rather it is conjectured that arbitrarily high run-up and amplification can be obtained provided that the correct initial wave trains are chosen.

Characteristics of bolus formation and propagation from breaking internal waves on shelf slopes

2016 ◽  
Vol 791 ◽  
pp. 260-283 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christine D. Moore ◽  
Jeffrey R. Koseff ◽  
Erin L. Hult
Keyword(s):  
Slope Angle ◽  
Propagation Speed ◽  
Wave Forcing ◽  
Initial Wave ◽  
Image Velocimetry ◽  
Planar Laser ◽  
Wave Trains ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Constant Slope ◽  
Incident Waves

A series of laboratory experiments was conducted to study the formation of internal boluses through the run up of periodic internal wave trains on a uniform slope/shelf topography in a two-layer stratified fluid system. In the experiments, the forcing parameters of the incident waves (wave amplitude and frequency) are varied for constant slope angle and layer depths. Simultaneous particle image velocimetry (PIV) and planar laser-induced fluorescence (PLIF) measurements are used to calculate high resolution, two-dimensional velocity and density fields. Over the range of wave forcing conditions, four bolus formation types were observed: backward overturning into a coherent bolus, top breaking into a turbulent bolus, top breaking into a turbulent surge and forward breaking into a turbulent surge. Wave forcing parameters, including a wave Froude number $Fr$, a wave Reynolds number $Re$ and a wave steepness parameter $ka_{0}$, are used to relate initial wave forcing to a dominant bolus formation mechanism. Bolus characteristics, including the bolus propagation speed and turbulent components, are also related to wave forcing. Results indicate that for $Fr>0.20$ and $ka_{0}>0.40$, the generated boluses become more turbulent in nature. As wave forcing continues to increase further, boluses are no longer able to form.

Phase velocity effects in tertiary wave interactions

1962 ◽  
Vol 12 (3) ◽  
pp. 333-336 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. S. Longuet-Higgins ◽  
O. M. Phillips
Keyword(s):  
Phase Velocity ◽  
Continuous Spectrum ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
The Other ◽  
Wave Number ◽  
Wave Interactions ◽  
Single Wave ◽  
Phase Velocities ◽  
Wave Trains

It is shown that, when two trains of waves in deep water interact, the phase velocity of each is modified by the presence of the other. The change in phase velocity is of second order and is distinct from the increase predicted by Stokes for a single wave train. When the wave trains are moving in the same direction, the increase in velocity Δc2 of the wave with amplitude a2, wave-number k2 and frequency α2 resulting from the interaction with the wave (a1, k1, σ1) is given by Δc2 = a21k1σ1, provided k1 < k2. If k1 > k2, then Δc2 is given by the same expression multiplied by k2/k1. If the directions of propagation are opposed, the phase velocities are decreased by the same amount. These expressions are extended to give the increase (or decrease) in velocity due to a continuous spectrum of waves all travelling in the same (or opposite) direction.

Impact on Shoreline Region by Waves Generated From Submarine and Surface Piercing Slides

Volume 1 ◽  
2004 ◽  
Author(s):  
Remus Ciobotaru ◽  
Razvan Bidoae ◽  
Peter E. Raad
Keyword(s):  
Hydrodynamic Force ◽  
Rectangular Channel ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Single Wave ◽  
Subaerial Landslide ◽  
Complex Shapes ◽  
Different Types ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Solid Bodies ◽  
Moving Bodies

The generation of single large waves by a forced motion of solid bodies in a three-dimensional, rectangular channel is investigated. The moving bodies can have simple (idealized) or more complex shapes. The shape and characteristics of the imposed motion are shown to affect the dynamics of the resulting single wave. Waves generated by three different types of landslides are compared by recording the hydrodynamic force and run-up height on a solid plane wall. The three types of landslides investigated are: (i) bottom movement (submarine landslide), (ii) falling mass (partially submerged landslide), and (iii) sliding mass (subaerial landslide).

The nonlinear dynamics of rogue waves and holes in deep-water gravity wave trains

2000 ◽  
Vol 275 (5-6) ◽  
pp. 386-393 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alfred R Osborne ◽  
Miguel Onorato ◽  
Marina Serio
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Dynamics ◽  
Gravity Wave ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Rogue Waves ◽  
Wave Trains

Climatology of the Sierra Nevada Mountain-Wave Events

2008 ◽  
Vol 136 (2) ◽  
pp. 757-768 ◽  
Author(s):  
Vanda Grubišić ◽  
Brian J. Billings
Keyword(s):  
Sierra Nevada ◽  
Cloud Formation ◽  
Wave Form ◽  
Mountain Range ◽  
Mountain Wave ◽  
Single Wave ◽  
Sierra Nevada Mountain ◽  
Lee Waves ◽  
Lee Wave ◽  
Wave Trains

Abstract This note presents a satellite-based climatology of the Sierra Nevada mountain-wave events. The data presented were obtained by detailed visual inspection of visible satellite imagery to detect mountain lee-wave clouds based on their location, shape, and texture. Consequently, this climatology includes only mountain-wave events during which sufficient moisture was present in the incoming airstream and whose amplitude was large enough to lead to cloud formation atop mountain-wave crests. The climatology is based on data from two mountain-wave seasons in the 1999–2001 period. Mountain-wave events are classified in two types according to cloud type as lee-wave trains and single wave clouds. The frequency of occurrence of these two wave types is examined as a function of the month of occurrence (October–May) and region of formation (north, middle, south, or the entire Sierra Nevada range). Results indicate that the maximum number of mountain-wave events in the lee of the Sierra Nevada occurs in the month of April. For several months, including January and May, frequency of wave events displays substantial interannual variability. Overall, trapped lee waves appear to be more common, in particular in the lee of the northern sierra. A single wave cloud on the lee side of the mountain range was found to be a more common wave form in the southern Sierra Nevada. The average wavelength of the Sierra Nevada lee waves was found to lie between 10 and 15 km, with a minimum at 4 km and a maximum at 32 km.

Finite-amplitude deep-water waves on currents

1979 ◽  
Vol 292 (1392) ◽  
pp. 371-390 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
The Other ◽  
Wave Trains ◽  
Deep Water Waves

Accurate integral properties of plane periodic deep-water waves of amplitudes up to the steepest are tabulated by Longuet-Higgins (1975). These are used to define an averaged Lagrangian which, following Whitham, is used to describe the properties of slowly varying wave trains. Two examples of waves on large-scale currents are examined in detail. One flow is that of a shearing current, V ( x ) j , which causes waves to be refracted. The other flow, U ( x ) i , varies in the direction of wave propagation and causes waves to either steepen or become more gentle. Some surprising features are found.

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