The time evolution of the maximal horizontal surface fluid velocity for an irrotational wave approaching breaking
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We derive an equation that relates the evolution in time of the maximum of the horizontal fluid velocity at the surface of an irrotational deep-water plunging or spilling breaker to the first component of the pressure gradient at the surface. The approach applies to overhanging wave profiles, up to breaking time.
2020 ◽
Vol 9
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1965 ◽
Vol 20
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pp. 1078-1082
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2006 ◽
Vol 1
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pp. 279-287
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1997 ◽
Vol 119
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pp. 700-706
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1990 ◽
Vol 114
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pp. 71-79
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