Wave breaking in Boussinesq models for undular bores

2011 ◽  
Vol 375 (14) ◽  
pp. 1570-1578 ◽  
Author(s):  
Magnar Bjørkavåg ◽  
Henrik Kalisch
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Boussinesq Models

A new approach to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq models

2012 ◽  
Vol 67 ◽  
pp. 54-66 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Tissier ◽  
P. Bonneton ◽  
F. Marche ◽  
F. Chazel ◽  
D. Lannes
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
New Approach ◽  
Non Linear ◽  
Boussinesq Models

PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Vertical Axis ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Spectral Structure ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Nonlinear Harmonics ◽  
The Waves

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.

Wave Breaking and Near-Surface Turbulence

2002 ◽  
Author(s):  
David M. Farmer ◽  
Johannes Gemmrich
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Near Surface ◽  
Surface Turbulence
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