The Sub-Harmonic Bifurcation of Stokes Waves

2000 ◽  
Vol 152 (3) ◽  
pp. 241-271 ◽  
Author(s):  
B. Buffoni ◽  
E. N. Dancer ◽  
J. F. Toland
Keyword(s):  

The method of multiple scales is used to examine the slow modulation of a harmonic wave moving over the surface of a two dimensional channel. The flow is assumed inviscid and incompressible, but the basic flow takes the form of an arbitrary shear. The appropriate nonlinear Schrödinger equation is derived with coefficients that depend, in a complicated way, on the shear. It is shown that this equation agrees with previous work for the case of no shear; it also agrees in the long wave limit with the appropriate short wave limit of the Korteweg-de Vries equation, the shear being arbitrary. Finally, it is remarked that the stability of Stokes waves over any shear can be examined by using the results derived here.


2000 ◽  
pp. 27-36
Author(s):  
Kiyohiro IKEDA ◽  
Nobuhito MORI ◽  
Takashi YASUDA

1974 ◽  
Vol 66 (1) ◽  
pp. 81-96 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. J. Bryant

Waves of small but finite amplitude in shallow water can occur as periodic wave trains of permanent shape in two known forms, either as Stokes waves for the shorter wavelengths or as cnoidal waves for the longer wavelengths. Calculations are made here of the periodic wave trains of permanent shape which span uniformly the range of increasing wavelength from Stokes waves to cnoidal waves and beyond. The present investigation is concerned with the stability of such permanent waves to periodic disturbances of greater or equal wavelength travelling in the same direction. The waves are found to be stable to infinitesimal and to small but finite disturbances of wavelength greater than the fundamental, the margin of stability decreasing either as the fundamental wave becomes more nonlinear (i.e. contains more harmonics), or as the wavelength of the periodic disturbance becomes large compared with the fundamental wavelength. The decreasing margin of stability is associated with an increasing loss of spatial periodicity of the wave train, to the extent that small but finite disturbances can cause a form of interaction between consecutive crests of the disturbed wave train. In such a case, a small but finite disturbance of wavelength n times the fundamental wavelength converts the wave train into n interacting wave trains. The amplitude of the disturbance subharmonic is then nearly periodic, the time scale being the time taken for repetitions of the pattern of interactions. When the disturbance is of the same wavelength as the permanent wave, the wave is found to be neutrally stable both to infinitesimal and to small but finite disturbances.


1989 ◽  
Vol 62 (11) ◽  
pp. 1263-1265 ◽  
Author(s):  
Katsumi Midorikawa ◽  
Hideo Tashiro ◽  
Keigo Nagasaka ◽  
Susumu Namba

1993 ◽  
Vol 37 (04) ◽  
pp. 354-383
Author(s):  
Willard J. Pierson

Oscillatory third-order perturbation solutions for sums of interacting long-crested Stokes waves on deep water are obtained. A third-order perturbation expansion of the nonlinear free boundary value problem, defined by the coupled Bernoulli equation and kinematic boundary condition evaluated at the free surface, is solved by replacing the exponential term in the potential function by its series expansion and substituting the equation for the free surface into it. There are second-order changes in the frequencies of the first-order terms at third order. The waves have a Stokes-like form when they are high. The phase speeds are a function of the amplitudes and wave numbers of all of the first-order terms. The solutions are illustrated. A preliminary experiment at the United States Naval Academy is described. Some applications to sea keeping are bow submergence and slamming, capsizing in following seas and bending moments.


2005 ◽  
Vol 12 (5) ◽  
pp. 671-689 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. Chalikov

Abstract. A numerical model for long-term simulation of gravity surface waves is described. The model is designed as a component of a coupled Wave Boundary Layer/Sea Waves model, for investigation of small-scale dynamic and thermodynamic interactions between the ocean and atmosphere. Statistical properties of nonlinear wave fields are investigated on a basis of direct hydrodynamical modeling of 1-D potential periodic surface waves. The method is based on a nonstationary conformal surface-following coordinate transformation; this approach reduces the principal equations of potential waves to two simple evolutionary equations for the elevation and the velocity potential on the surface. The numerical scheme is based on a Fourier transform method. High accuracy was confirmed by validation of the nonstationary model against known solutions, and by comparison between the results obtained with different resolutions in the horizontal. The scheme allows reproduction of the propagation of steep Stokes waves for thousands of periods with very high accuracy. The method here developed is applied to simulation of the evolution of wave fields with large number of modes for many periods of dominant waves. The statistical characteristics of nonlinear wave fields for waves of different steepness were investigated: spectra, curtosis and skewness, dispersion relation, life time. The prime result is that wave field may be presented as a superposition of linear waves is valid only for small amplitudes. It is shown as well, that nonlinear wave fields are rather a superposition of Stokes waves not linear waves. Potential flow, free surface, conformal mapping, numerical modeling of waves, gravity waves, Stokes waves, breaking waves, freak waves, wind-wave interaction.


1992 ◽  
Vol 26 (6) ◽  
pp. 935-937
Author(s):  
�. L. Amromin ◽  
V. A. Bushkovskii ◽  
D. Yu. Sadovnikov
Keyword(s):  

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