6.2.4 Surface waves in deep water

2005 ◽  
pp. 21-32
Author(s):  
W. Rosenthal
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Deep Water

scholarly journals Development and Validation of Quasi-Eulerian Mean Three-Dimensional Equations of Motion Using the Generalized Lagrangian Mean Method

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (1) ◽  
pp. 76
Author(s):  
Duoc Nguyen ◽  
Niels Jacobsen ◽  
Dano Roelvink
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Equations Of Motion ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Successful Implementation ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Mean Motion ◽  
Generalized Lagrangian

This study aims at developing a new set of equations of mean motion in the presence of surface waves, which is practically applicable from deep water to the coastal zone, estuaries, and outflow areas. The generalized Lagrangian mean (GLM) method is employed to derive a set of quasi-Eulerian mean three-dimensional equations of motion, where effects of the waves are included through source terms. The obtained equations are expressed to the second-order of wave amplitude. Whereas the classical Eulerian-mean equations of motion are only applicable below the wave trough, the new equations are valid until the mean water surface even in the presence of finite-amplitude surface waves. A two-dimensional numerical model (2DV model) is developed to validate the new set of equations of motion. The 2DV model passes the test of steady monochromatic waves propagating over a slope without dissipation (adiabatic condition). This is a primary test for equations of mean motion with a known analytical solution. In addition to this, experimental data for the interaction between random waves and a mean current in both non-breaking and breaking waves are employed to validate the 2DV model. As shown by this successful implementation and validation, the implementation of these equations in any 3D model code is straightforward and may be expected to provide consistent results from deep water to the surf zone, under both weak and strong ambient currents.

Action of an adverse current on the shape of deep water surface waves

1995 ◽  
Vol 18 (6) ◽  
pp. 438-444 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Bonmarin ◽  
F. Bartholin ◽  
A. Ramamonjiarisoa
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Surface

Refraction of gravity waves by weak current gradients

2001 ◽  
Vol 442 ◽  
pp. 157-159 ◽  
Author(s):  
KRISTIAN B. DYSTHE
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Group Velocity ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Current Velocity ◽  
Water Surface ◽  
Simple Formula ◽  
Vertical Component ◽  
Weak Current ◽  
The Waves

When deep water surface waves cross an area with variable current, refraction takes place. If the group velocity of the waves is much larger than the current velocity we show that the curvature of a ray, χ, is given by the simple formula χ = ζ/vg. Here ζ is the vertical component of the current vorticity and vg is the group velocity.

Nonlinear Fourier Analysis Algorithm and Models for Water Waves in Terms of Surface Elevation, Amplitude Modulations

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alfred R. Osborne
Keyword(s):  
Synthetic Aperture Radar ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Field ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Coherent Structures ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Synthetic Aperture ◽  
Wave Measurements

Abstract This paper addresses two issues with regard to nonlinear ocean waves. (1) The first issue relates to the often-confused differences between the coordinates used for the measurement and characterization of ocean surface waves: The surface elevation and the complex modulation of a wave field. (2) The second issue relates to the very different kinds of physical wave behavior that occur in shallow and deep water. Both issues come from the known, very different behaviors of deep and shallow water waves. In shallow water one often uses the Korteweg-deVries that describes the wave surface elevation in terms of cnoidal waves and solitons. In deep water one uses the nonlinear Schrödinger equation whose solutions correspond to the complex envelope of a wave field that has Stokes wave and breather solutions. Here I make clear the relationships between the two ways of characterizing surface waves. Furthermore, and more importantly, I address the issues of matching the two types of wave behavior as the wave motion passes from deep to shallow water, or vice versa. For wave measurements we normally obtain the surface elevation with a wave staff, resistance gauge or pressure recorder for getting time series. Remote sensing applications relate to the use of lidar, radar or synthetic aperture radar for obtaining space series. The two types of wave behavior can therefore crucially depend on where the instrument is placed on the “ground track” or “field” over which the lidar or radar measurements are made. Thus the matching problem from deep to shallow water is not only important for wave measurements, but also for wave modeling. Modern wave models [Osborne, 2010, 2018, 2019a, 2019b] that maintain the coherent structures of wave dynamics (solitons, Stokes waves, breathers, superbreathers, vortices, etc.) must naturally pass from deep to shallow water where the nature of the nonlinear physics, and the form of the coherent structures, change. I address these issues and more herein. This paper is directed towards the development of methods for the real time measurement of waves by shipboard radar and for wave measurements by airplane and helicopter using lidar and synthetic aperture radar. Wave modeling efforts are also underway.

scholarly journals EASI: An Air–Sea Interaction Buoy for High Winds

2014 ◽  
Vol 31 (6) ◽  
pp. 1397-1409 ◽  
Author(s):  
W. M. Drennan ◽  
H. C. Graber ◽  
C. O. Collins ◽  
A. Herrera ◽  
H. Potter ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Lower Atmosphere ◽  
Upper Ocean ◽  
High Wind ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
High Winds

Abstract This paper describes the new Extreme Air–Sea Interaction (EASI) buoy designed to measure direct air–sea fluxes, as well as mean properties of the lower atmosphere, upper ocean, and surface waves in high wind and wave conditions. The design of the buoy and its associated deep-water mooring are discussed. The performance of EASI during its 2010 deployment off Taiwan, where three typhoons were encountered, is summarized.

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