scholarly journals A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence

2013 ◽  
Vol 40 (11) ◽  
pp. 2726-2730 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. Garnier ◽  
A. Falqués ◽  
D. Calvete ◽  
J. Thiébot ◽  
F. Ribas
Keyword(s):  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Incidence

scholarly journals ANOTHER APPROACH TO LONGSHORE CURRENT EVALUATION

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 100
Author(s):  
M.A. Losada ◽  
A. Sanchez-Archilla ◽  
C. Vidal
Keyword(s):  
Simple Model ◽  
Predictive Model ◽  
General Expression ◽  
Current Velocity ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Reynolds Stresses ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Current Generation ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Incidence

A simple model to predict the longshore current velocity at the breaker line on a beach with oblique wave incidence, is presented. The model balances driving and resistance terms (gradients of radiation and turbulent Reynolds stresses and bottom friction) to get a general expression for the velocity. This equation shows explicitely the influence of Iribarren's parameter on longshore current generation. It has been tested with field and laboratory data, obtaining a reasonable fit to measured values. The resulting (predictive) model is expected to be valid for any type of breakers though the calibration has been mainly done for spilling and plunging types, due to the scarcity of results for other breakers.

scholarly journals Modeling large scale shoreline sand waves under oblique wave incidence

2012 ◽  
Vol 117 (F3) ◽  
pp. n/a-n/a ◽  
Author(s):  
N. van den Berg ◽  
A. Falqués ◽  
F. Ribas
Keyword(s):  
Large Scale ◽  
Sand Waves ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Incidence

scholarly journals FORMATION OF DYNAMICALLY STABLE LAKESHORE UNDER SEASONALLY CHANGING WAVE DIRECTION

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 85
Author(s):  
Toshinori Ishikawa ◽  
Takaaki Uda ◽  
Toshiro San-nami ◽  
Shusuke Watanabe
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Simulation ◽  
Sandy Beach ◽  
Beach Nourishment ◽  
Lake Kasumigaura ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Spur Dike ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
The Stability ◽  
Wave Incidence

In the Ukishima region of Lake Kasumigaura, beach nourishment along with the construction of groins has been carried out to recover a sandy beach. After the beach nourishment, part of the nourishment sand was transported away from the beach, turning around the tip of the downcoast groin owing to the oblique wave incidence in winter. To enhance the stability of the beach, the groins were extended and a spur dike was constructed. To design these structures, a numerical simulation using the BG model was carried out, and the optimum shapes were determined by taking into account the seasonally changing wave direction. The effectiveness of the spur dike was numerically evaluated using the BG model.

scholarly journals MEASUREMENT OF WAVE PRESSURE ON PERFORATED CAISSON WALL UNDER OBLIQUE WAVE INCIDENCE

2014 ◽  
Vol 1 (34) ◽  
pp. 68
Author(s):  
Sang-Ho Oh ◽  
Chang-Hwan Ji ◽  
Young Min Oh ◽  
Hee Do Ahn
Keyword(s):  
Wave Pressure ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Perforated Caisson ◽  
Wave Incidence

INSTABILITY OF A COASTLINE WITH VERY OBLIQUE WAVE INCIDENCE

2007 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lucia Uguccioni ◽  
Rolf Deigaard ◽  
Jørgen Fredsøe
Keyword(s):  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Incidence

MORPHOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT OF COASTS AT VERY OBLIQUE WAVE INCIDENCE

2003 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dorthe Petersen ◽  
Rolf Deigaard ◽  
Jørgen Fredsøe ◽  
Nils Drønen
Keyword(s):  
Morphological Development ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Incidence

Reflection and transmission from porous structures under oblique wave attack

1991 ◽  
Vol 224 ◽  
pp. 625-644 ◽  
Author(s):  
Robert A. Dalrymple ◽  
Miguel A. Losada ◽  
P. A. Martin
Keyword(s):  
Porous Medium ◽  
Plane Wave ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Normal Wave ◽  
Eigenfunction Expansions ◽  
Reflection And Transmission ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Water Region ◽  
Wave Incidence ◽  
Wave Modes

The linear theory for water waves impinging obliquely on a vertically sided porous structure is examined. For normal wave incidence, the reflection and transmission from a porous breakwater has been studied many times using eigenfunction expansions in the water region in front of the structure, within the porous medium, and behind the structure in the down-wave water region. For oblique wave incidence, the reflection and transmission coefficients are significantly altered and they are calculated here.Using a plane-wave assumption, which involves neglecting the evanescent eigenmodes that exist near the structure boundaries (to satisfy matching conditions), the problem can be reduced from a matrix problem to one which is analytic. The plane-wave approximation provides an adequate solution for the case where the damping within the structure is not too great.An important parameter in this problem is Γ2= ω2h(s- if)/g, where ω is the wave angular frequency,hthe constant water depth,gthe acceleration due to gravity, andsandfare parameters describing the porous medium. As the friction in the porous medium,f, becomes non-zero, the eigenfunctions differ from those in the fluid regions, largely owing to the change in the modal wavenumbers, which depend on Γ2.For an infinite number of values of ΓF2, there are no eigenfunction expansions in the porous medium, owing to the coalescence of two of the wavenumbers. These cases are shown to result in a non-separable mathematical problem and the appropriate wave modes are determined. As the two wavenumbers approach the critical value of Γ2, it is shown that the wave modes can swap their identity.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document