Depth-integrated, non-hydrostatic model for wave breaking and run-up

2009 ◽  
Vol 61 (5) ◽  
pp. 473-497 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yoshiki Yamazaki ◽  
Zygmunt Kowalik ◽  
Kwok Fai Cheung
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Hydrostatic Model ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals Assessment of Numerical Methods for Plunging Breaking Wave Predictions

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 264
Author(s):  
Shanti Bhushan ◽  
Oumnia El Fajri ◽  
Graham Hubbard ◽  
Bradley Chambers ◽  
Christopher Kees
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Turbulence Models ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Rans Turbulence Models ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Better Than

This study evaluates the capability of Navier–Stokes solvers in predicting forward and backward plunging breaking, including assessment of the effect of grid resolution, turbulence model, and VoF, CLSVoF interface models on predictions. For this purpose, 2D simulations are performed for four test cases: dam break, solitary wave run up on a slope, flow over a submerged bump, and solitary wave over a submerged rectangular obstacle. Plunging wave breaking involves high wave crest, plunger formation, and splash up, followed by second plunger, and chaotic water motions. Coarser grids reasonably predict the wave breaking features, but finer grids are required for accurate prediction of the splash up events. However, instabilities are triggered at the air–water interface (primarily for the air flow) on very fine grids, which induces surface peel-off or kinks and roll-up of the plunger tips. Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) turbulence models result in high eddy-viscosity in the air–water region which decays the fluid momentum and adversely affects the predictions. Both VoF and CLSVoF methods predict the large-scale plunging breaking characteristics well; however, they vary in the prediction of the finer details. The CLSVoF solver predicts the splash-up event and secondary plunger better than the VoF solver; however, the latter predicts the plunger shape better than the former for the solitary wave run-up on a slope case.

scholarly journals Non-breaking and breaking solitary wave run-up

2002 ◽  
Vol 456 ◽  
pp. 295-318 ◽  
Author(s):  
YING LI ◽  
FREDRIC RAICHLEN
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Ad Hoc ◽  
Mapping Technique ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Good Prediction ◽  
Computational Domain ◽  
Domain Mapping ◽  
Run Up

The run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank was investigated experimentally and numerically. If only the general characteristics of the run-up process and the maximum run-up are of interest, for the case of a breaking wave the post-breaking condition can be simplified and represented as a propagating bore. A numerical model using this bore structure to treat the process of wave breaking and subsequent shoreward propagation was developed. The nonlinear shallow water equations (NLSW) were solved using the weighted essentially non-oscillatory (WENO) shock capturing scheme employed in gas dynamics. Wave breaking and post-breaking propagation are handled automatically by this scheme and ad hoc terms are not required. A computational domain mapping technique was used to model the shoreline movement. This numerical scheme was found to provide a relatively simple and reasonably good prediction of various aspects of the run-up process. The energy dissipation associated with wave breaking of solitary wave run-up (excluding the effects of bottom friction) was also estimated using the results from the numerical model.

scholarly journals Modelling of tsunami wave run-up, breaking and impact on vertical wall by SPH method

2013 ◽  
Vol 1 (3) ◽  
pp. 2831-2857
Author(s):  
M. H. Dao ◽  
H. Xu ◽  
E. S. Chan ◽  
P. Tkalich
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Sph Method ◽  
Particle Hydrodynamics ◽  
Potential Applications ◽  
Sph Model ◽  
Smoothed Particle ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Steep Waves ◽  
Tunami N2

Abstract. Accurate predictions of wave run-up and run-down are important for coastal impact assessment of relatively long waves such as tsunami or storm waves. Wave run-up is, however, a complex process involving nonlinear build-up of the wave front, intensive wave breaking and strong turbulent flow, making the numerical approximation challenging. Recent advanced modeling methodologies could help to overcome these numerical challenges. For a demonstration, we study run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on vertical wall using two methods, the enhanced Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method and the traditional non-breaking nonlinear model Tunami-N2. The Tunami-N2 model fails to capture the evolution of steep waves at the proximity of breaking that observed in the experiments. Whereas, the SPH method successfully simulate the wave propagation, breaking, impact on structure and the reform and breaking processes of wave run-down. The study also indicates that inadequate approximation of the wave breaking could lead to significant under-predictions of wave height and impact pressure on structures. The SPH model shows potential applications for accurate impact assessments of wave run-up onto coastal structures.

scholarly journals Automatic Shoreline Position and Intertidal Foreshore Slope Detection from X-Band Radar Images using Modified Temporal Waterline Method with Corrected Wave Run-up

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (2) ◽  
pp. 45
Author(s):  
Dipankar Kumar ◽  
Satoshi Takewaka
Keyword(s):  
Survey Data ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Shoreline Position ◽  
High Wave ◽  
Horizontal Shift ◽  
Radar Images ◽  
X Band ◽  
Binary Signal ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Set Up

Automatic and accurate shoreline position and intertidal foreshore slope detection are challenging and significantly important for coastal dynamics. In the present study, a time series shoreline position and intertidal foreshore slope have been automatically detected using modified Temporal Waterline Method (mTWM) from time-averaged X-band radar images captured throughout the course of two-week tidal cycle variation over an area spanning 5.6 km on the Hasaki coast between 12 April 2005 and 31 December 2008. The methodology is based on the correlation map between the pixel intensity variation of the time-averaged X-band radar images and the binary signal of the tide level ranging from −0.8 m to 0.8 m. In order to ensure the binary signal represented each of the water levels in the intertidal shore profile, determining the water level direction-wise bottom elevation is considered as the modification. Random gaps were detected in the captured images owing to the unclear or oversaturation of the waterline signal. A horizontal shift in the detected shoreline positions was observed compared to the survey data previously collected at Hasaki Oceanographical Research Station (HORS). This horizontal shift can be attributed to wave breaking and high wave conditions. Wave set-up and run-up are the effects of wave breaking and high wave conditions, respectively. The correction of the wave set-up and run-up is considered to allow the upward shift of the water level position, as well as shoreline position, to the landward direction. The findings indicate that the shoreline positions derived by mTWM with the corrected wave run-up reasonably agree with the survey data. The mean absolute bias (MAB) between the survey data and the shoreline positions detected using mTWM with the corrected wave run-up is approximately 5.9 m, which is theoretically smaller than the spatial resolution of the radar measurements. The random gaps in the mTWM-derived shoreline positions are filled by Garcia’s data filling algorithm which is a Penalized Least Squares regression method by means of the Discrete Cosine Transform (PLS-DCT). The MAB between survey data and the gap filled shoreline positions detected using TWM with corrected wave run-up is approximately 5.9 m. The obtained results indicate the accuracy of the mTWM with corrected wave run-up integrated with Garcia’s method compared to the survey observations. The executed approach in this study is considered as an efficient and robust tool to automatically detect shoreline positions and intertidal foreshore slopes extracted from X-band radar images with the consideration of wave run-up correction.

scholarly journals TSUNAMI RUN-UP ON THE HORIZONTAL BEACH

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 10
Author(s):  
Igor Shugan ◽  
Hwung-Hweng Hwung ◽  
Ray-Yeng Yang
Keyword(s):  
Shock Wave ◽  
Shear Flow ◽  
Wave Front ◽  
Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Vertical Shear ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Dam Breaking ◽  
Tsunami Run Up ◽  
Energy Relations

Tsunami run-up on the flat horizontal beach is studied by using the Benney shallow water equations. The dam-breaking flow includes vortexes, vertical shear flow and dissipation of momentum and energy on the front due to bore breaking. Propagating of hydrodynamics bores with breaking is analyzed by the mass, momentum and energy relations on the shock wave. Non dissipative wave front propagates faster than classical bore, while taking into account the dissipation and wave breaking leads to slowing of the wave front.

Modelling Wave Breaking across Coral Reefs Using a Non-Hydrostatic Model

2018 ◽  
Vol 85 ◽  
pp. 501-505 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jian Shi ◽  
Chi Zhang ◽  
Jinhai Zheng ◽  
Chaofeng Tong ◽  
Peng Wang ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Coral Reefs ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Hydrostatic Model

Solitary wave run-up: wave breaking and bore propagation

2017 ◽  
Vol 55 (6) ◽  
pp. 787-798 ◽  
Author(s):  
Helgi J. Hafsteinsson ◽  
Frederic M. Evers ◽  
Willi H. Hager
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Run Up
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