scholarly journals High‐efficiency gravel longshore sediment transport and headland bypassing over an extreme wave event

2019 ◽  
Vol 44 (13) ◽  
pp. 2720-2727 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.J. McCarroll ◽  
G. Masselink ◽  
M. Wiggins ◽  
T. Scott ◽  
O. Billson ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
High Efficiency ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Event ◽  
Extreme Wave Event

Local Energy Spectra in the Vicinity of an Extreme Wave Event

2003 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard Gibson ◽  
Chris Swan
Keyword(s):  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Time Frequency ◽  
Recent Advances ◽  
Rapid Changes ◽  
Wave Event ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Water Particle Kinematics ◽  
Extreme Wave Event

Previous work by Baldock, Swan and Taylor [1], Johannessen and Swan [2,3], and Bateman, Swan and Taylor [4,5] has demonstrated that in the vicinity of an extreme wave event there are significant and rapid changes in the local wave spectrum. The present paper combines two recent advances. The first is a new fully nonlinear directional wave model, the application of which is particularly suited to the description of extreme waves arising in realistic sea states. The second involves recent advances in time-frequency analysis techniques. Unlike traditional spectral analysis, based upon the Fourier transform, these allow local and rapid changes in a wave spectrum to be clearly identified. By combining these methods the proposed paper will first highlight the occurrence of these changes in realistic seas and will subsequently demonstrate their significance both in terms of estimating crest height elevations and in predicting the associated water particle kinematics.

Extreme wave event along the Guyana coastline in October 2005

2009 ◽  
Vol 29 (1) ◽  
pp. 352-361 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mathijs van Ledden ◽  
Geoffrey Vaughn ◽  
Joost Lansen ◽  
Frank Wiersma ◽  
Mewburn Amsterdam
Keyword(s):  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Wave Event ◽  
Extreme Wave Event

scholarly journals Influence of wind on extreme wave events: experimental and numerical approaches

2007 ◽  
Vol 594 ◽  
pp. 209-247 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. KHARIF ◽  
J.-P. GIOVANANGELI ◽  
J. TOUBOUL ◽  
L. GRARE ◽  
E. PELINOVSKY
Keyword(s):  
Modulational Instability ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Experimental Results ◽  
Leeward Side ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Time Duration ◽  
Wave Event ◽  
Steep Waves ◽  
Extreme Wave Event

The influence of wind on extreme wave events in deep water is investigated experimentally and numerically. A series of experiments conducted in the Large Air–Sea Interactions Facility (LASIF-Marseille, France) shows that wind blowing over a short wave group due to the dispersive focusing of a longer frequency-modulated wavetrain (chirped wave packet) may increase the time duration of the extreme wave event by delaying the defocusing stage. A detailed analysis of the experimental results suggests that extreme wave events may be sustained longer by the air flow separation occurring on the leeward side of the steep crests. Furthermore it is found that the frequency downshifting observed during the formation of the extreme wave event is more important when the wind velocity is larger. These experiments have pointed out that the transfer of momentum and energy is strongly increased during extreme wave events.Two series of numerical simulations have been performed using a pressure distribution over the steep crests given by the Jeffreys sheltering theory. The first series corresponding to the dispersive focusing confirms the experimental results. The second series which corresponds to extreme wave events due to modulational instability, shows that wind sustains steep waves which then evolve into breaking waves. Furthermore, it was shown numerically that during extreme wave events the wind-driven current could play a significant role in their persistence.

An extreme wave event in eastern Yucatán, Mexico: Evidence of a palaeotsunami event during the Mayan times

Sedimentology ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 67 (3) ◽  
pp. 1481-1504 ◽  
Author(s):  
Javier Lario ◽  
Chris Spencer ◽  
Teresa Bardají ◽  
Ángel Marchante ◽  
Victor H. Garduño‐monroy ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Wave Event ◽  
Extreme Wave Event

scholarly journals Extreme wave event in Ilha Grande Bay: a case study

2011 ◽  
Vol 5 (2) ◽  
pp. 27-44
Author(s):  
Victor Azevedo Godoi ◽  
Leandro Calado ◽  
Wandrey de Bortoli Watanabe ◽  
Luciana Erika Yaginuma ◽  
Marcos Bastos
Keyword(s):  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Wave Event ◽  
Extreme Wave Event

scholarly journals Single-grain feldspar luminescence chronology of historical extreme wave event deposits recorded in a coastal lowland, Pacific coast of central Japan

2018 ◽  
Vol 45 ◽  
pp. 37-49 ◽  
Author(s):  
Svenja Riedesel ◽  
Dominik Brill ◽  
Helen M. Roberts ◽  
Geoff A.T. Duller ◽  
Ed Garrett ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Pacific Coast ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Central Japan ◽  
Coastal Lowland ◽  
Wave Event ◽  
Single Grain ◽  
Extreme Wave Event

Benchmark of CFD Modeling of TLP Free Motion in Extreme Wave Event

2014 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guangyu Wu ◽  
Hyunchul Jang ◽  
Jang Whan Kim ◽  
Wei Ma ◽  
Muo-Chung Wu ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Model Test ◽  
Potential Flow ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Cfd Simulations ◽  
Flow Solver ◽  
Nonlinear Potential ◽  
Wave Event ◽  
Tendon Tension ◽  
Field Wave ◽  
Extreme Wave Event

In this study, a numerical wave tank was set up to simulate the free motion of a Tension Leg Platform (TLP) in extreme wave event. For better computational efficiency, a nonlinear potential flow solver is coupled with a CFD software, with the former to simulate the far-field wave domain and the latter to simulate the near-field wave domain and platform motion. In order to benchmark against model test, a five-minute time window of interest was selected from the extreme sea state in model test. The incoming irregular wave was firstly reconstructed from the measured wave time history using the nonlinear potential flow solver and then applied as input to CFD simulations for two different headings to the platform. Static offset tests and free decay tests were simulated in CFD initially to confirm that the platform and tendon properties were properly modeled. The 6-DOF platform motions were then obtained from the CFD simulations and the time histories of motion, air gap, and tendon tension were compared with model test measurements. Good agreements were achieved except for the initial transient period and low-frequency motions. In particular, the air gap or relative wave elevation compared well for all the locations around the platform. The high frequency response in tendon tension and the different tension characteristics of weather side tendons and leeside tendons were also well captured.

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